What sort of a puller are you using? (pics would be nice) And have you verified that you have clearance to the flange at the top of the sleeve so you are actually pulling relative to the block and not simply attempting to crush the sleeve?
Relative to the Sawzall, that's a classic method for removing a generic sleeve but I'd be worried about going too deep. I think I'd try a file or a die grinder first to create a couple notches which might create a (helpful) fracture.
IMHO while there are a few torch wizards out there that's a little too sensitive for the typical class of work. Any burrs, bubbles, or drips will create resistance and be dragged past the existing machining, creating damage.
Here is what I used on my 340's engine block recently. This worked well. The bottom puck has a pilot which clears the sleeve bore by about .020". It simply keeps the threaded rod centered. and the OD is slightly undersized as well so it doesn't drag any more than the OD of the sleeve.
This post was edited by mattofvinings at 15:30:30 08/03/09 2 times.
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Today's Featured Article - What Oil Should I Use? - by Francis Robinson. I keep seein this question pop up over and over again in discussion groups all over the web. As with many things there are often several right answers and a few wrong ones. Some purist I'm sure will disagree to no end with what I will tell you but most of us out here in the real world don't really care do we ? Some of them only bring their noses down out of the air long enough to look down them anyway. If you are like me you are only doing this old tractor stuff because you enjoy it. You
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