Like already suggested, make sure the gov to carb is in the slot, if you happen to get it on the top side, the throttle plate will only open about a third of the way and you will have no power. Timing is 25 degrees btdc at full throttle and if dist advance is in good condition it will retard to near tdc at low idle, however, the full advance is the important part. The carb has a calibrated main jet so you can lean it out a little for light work but you can't give a lot of extra fuel no matter how far you turn needle out unless someone has drilled it out. As for the leaky carb, new needle and seats are nortorious for leaking even with proper float setting. I always coin or stake seat on all new ones. I use a pintle from an injection nozzle and it works great with a few light taps with a small hammer. Just some ideas to think about.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Electronic Ignition - by Staff. Oil, for example has come a long way in the last 50 years and I don't use anything but the latest API grade available. I've heard the arguments for non-detergent oils but would never trade it for today's formulations. Paint is another, the modern acrylic enamels are great for resistance to grease and fuel stains, retaining their shine and they last forever; unlike enamels and lacquers . Still another is the alternator. No doubt using the original generator keeps the tractor pure, but for thos
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