You didnt say where the play realy is. Start with the tie-rods you can thighten them some unless they are agg-shaped then with a disc grinder you and use a calipers and get them round again. Next is the out-put shaft it will be square and can be snugged up by getting the bolt that hold it to the shaft tight. T o do that you realy need to remove the axel. I would replace the bolt with a new one. Now inside of the gearbox it can be two bushings two bearings and a new key. Do the easy thingw first. I have rebuilt several replaced the two seals then filled with 90wt and it will be like new again. The worm and gear are most likely good enough and costly to replace. Your total parts to renew bearings and seals and bushings will run around 50. T o grease the spindles its best to have the tractor jacked up to remove the pressure on the bottom of the spindle and it will take grease better. good luck and have fun.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Oliver 70 Row Crop - by Staff. The Oliver 70 was part of the "Fleetline Series" and was manufacturered from 1937 to 1948. The row-crop configuration could have either dual or single front wheels. The Oliver 70 was also offered in the standard, orchard and industrial configurations. The tractors were sold in Canada. An early advertisement states "Power when you want it - power when you need it - power to help put in crops when field conditions are right and time and help are limited. That's the power you'll find in an Oliv
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