Two real trouble spots: If the worm bearings are bad/loose check this. Turn the wheel to the right till the tires just start to turn on the ground. Have someone hold it there against the turning effort. Use a magic marker to mark the shaft around where it enters the box and disappears. Turn the wheel the other way until the wheels again begin to turn on the ground keep going till the mark is back at the same place. Look carefully at where you made the mark. The mark should still be very close if not at the same place you made it. If it is moved out any, the bearings are worn, or out of adjustment in the Worm. The big nut on the far end can tighten them, but id worn, it will bind and not do well. The shaft must turn easily if the front wheels are off of the ground. The steering arm under the front can also be loose on the main shaft. It is either a tapered square shank, or a taper with woodruff keys. These can be partially sheared, or augered out sockets. Replacing with larger Keys is possible to save the existing parts. Machine shop, or deft touch with a Dremel Grinder. THe square ones need to be looked at to see where the wear is and may need to have a new part or two to fix it correctly. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Oliver 70 Row Crop - by Staff. The Oliver 70 was part of the "Fleetline Series" and was manufacturered from 1937 to 1948. The row-crop configuration could have either dual or single front wheels. The Oliver 70 was also offered in the standard, orchard and industrial configurations. The tractors were sold in Canada. An early advertisement states "Power when you want it - power when you need it - power to help put in crops when field conditions are right and time and help are limited. That's the power you'll find in an Oliv
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