You need to determine if system is staying on high pressure when valves are in neutral position. Easiest way is with a gauge in the plug at pump mount. Should read less than 100 psi in neutral and about 1200psi with valve on demand. Other ways is to listen to engine when using hydraulics. With no load on the hitch, lower it way down, then let it stabilize for a minute, raise hitch and if engine seems to run more freely while raising than it does after it stops, your system is staying on demand. Another way, dead head an aux valve, it should cause engine to labor. If it is on demand already you will not notice any change. Note, this may not occur until system has started to warm up quite a bit or it may happen immediately depending on what the problem is. Most usual problem is one of aux valves has been turned too far where you change from single to double action and bent or broke the roll pin stop. Next most common is that the teledepth valve for hitch wears at regulating land and allows more fluid to escape than can be supplied through the screened orfice in regulating valve assembly or the screen is simply collapsed and plugged. So, you need to determine if it is staying on demand before we go into the ways of repairing it. May be that it is not getting excessively hot and pump is just worn out. Relief valves are near bullet proof on these models but the regulating valve is a different story. Both in same block. Like has been suggested already , a flow rater is the way to go, but if you do on these models the correct place to measure flow is from that port on pump mount that way you can close it off and check neutral regulated pressure as well as flow and max pressure of pump.
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