You do need to get a manual if you're going to get into this, but what I can say to get you started is what they call the pressure regulator valve and the safety valve are under the head at the rear of the T/C block. Investigating and curing that will mean removal of the T/C unit. If pressure turns out to be the problem and you need to go in that far, get the book and get the kit (consisting of 14,322 individual o-rings -- when you're all done you should have 8 left over if you did it right) and overhaul the whole riggin' while you're in there.
As far as testing the pressure, no-load low pressure will be too low to trigger a gauge, 40# or less. Pressure under a load (operating arms rigged with something substantial to lift -- the manual suggests a couple of wheel weights) should fall into the 1100-1500 psi range. If you've got something heavy on you FastHitch, that will suffice.
The gauge does hook up in the area you mentioned. It goes into the rear pipe plug of the manifold that joins up to the T/C block.
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Today's Featured Article - Measuring with Calipers - by Staff. The legs of inside calipers are curved outward at the extremities to facilitate measuring small holes, while outside caliper legs have a large curve inward to increase their capacity for large work. Firm-joint calipers are adjusted approximately by the hands and then set to the feel of the work by tapping them on a metal surface. It is a common practice when opening calipers by this means to tap the top of the joint. It is better, if possible, to tap the inside of the legs, as repeated blo
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