I'm not quite sure I understand your question, so if I miss the target with this answer, please post again! Your mower has TWO HOSES? That would indicate to me that you have a hose to each end of the lift cylinder, thus a "double acting" (pressure both ways) cylinder. On a sickle bar mower, you can likely disconnect one hose, and run the cylinder as a "single acting" (pressure one way) unit and allow gravity to lower the sickle bar. The one hose will take oil under pressure to the cylinder and either extend or contract the cylinder, depending on which end the hose is plumbed to. Pulling the lift lever will raise the mower, and the lever will hold the mower in the raised position until it is pushed all the way forward and pressure is released. You can run this setup off EITHER front port, but you will NOT need to use BOTH ports. Actually....if both front ports are blocked off at the outlets, the rear port will work just fine to lift the mower, as the Lift-All system will automatically shift oil to the rear port since the front ones are doing nothing, and there will be no (or at least no noticeable) delay. If you hook up your cylinder as a single-acting cylinder, you'll need to put a "breather" plug in the cylinder port that you aren't using. This will allow air to enter that side of the cylinder when gravity lowers the mower and pushes oil in the other end of the cylinder back to the pump. You can get one of these breather plugs from your local implement dealer, Tractor Supply, Farm-Fleet, or anywhere that sells hydraulic hoses, couplings, etc. It is necessary to let air into one end of the cylinder, and keep dust out. Keep in mind that the un-pressurized end of that cylinder may have some oil in it, so things can get messy the first time you cycle the system. Don't be standing in the way, or have your face down there looking at that cylinder the first time you pressurize it, because any oil in the other end is going to come out! It might be a good idea to cycle the system once and THEN install the breather plug.
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Today's Featured Article - Converting from 6 Volt to 12 Volt - by Chris Pratt. It's a common problem for old machines especially when the weather starts to dip below 40 and the tractor isn't fired up as often. You are probably used to the 12 volt Diehard, charged with 200 amp alternator of your 3/4 ton that always is ready and always starts. It's this type of experience that brings about the many queries we get for 12-volt conversion kits. Since only a few kits are available (we sell kits for the
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