Posted by John T on March 03, 2009 at 08:49:51 from (71.55.26.69):
In Reply to: no spark! posted by Willbur on March 03, 2009 at 07:29:17:
I agree with Jimbo... There should be near full battery voltage on the coils input (from battery/switch) and over on its output (to distributor) there should be near battery voltage with points open but near ZERO when they are closed.
If theres only like a volt or two on the coils output (to distributor) when points are closed Id suspect burned/corroded/carboned/pitted resisive points but if theres like 3 to 8 etc the points must be really really badlyyyyyyyy burned and/or not fully closing cuz the gaps set too wide. If theres less then full battery voltage at the coils input when the points are closed and the coils conducting current then Id suspect a bad resistive ignition switch contact but that shouldnt be the case when shes hot wired correct
Put a 12 volt test lamp on the coils primary output terminal (one to distributor) and as the engine is cranked it should flash full bright ON when points are open but go dead OFF when they are closed......Shes never gonna fire until the voltage on the coils primary output (to dist) terminal) is on and off i.e. test lamp flashes on then off as engine is cranked.. If it never comes on, the points arent opening or the condensors shorted (or a wiring short) or the coils primary is open........If it never goes off, the points arent closing or are burned/pitted or the points or dist isnt well grounded or the wires open
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