Posted by P and R Pete on January 20, 2009 at 16:17:28 from (66.33.250.243):
In Reply to: super a rear axle help posted by superAsquirrel on January 19, 2009 at 18:29:57:
continued, part 5...
Here's the removed-housing, not as heavy as I thought it would be.
Here you can see the inner seal, and the floor jack under the differential case. Again, it is VITAL that the front end be blocked adequately, as it is the R front wheel that keeps it all from tipping over to the right.
Scotty took his "floor"-with-pedal-assemblys off as a unit with the differential tube. I was able to take enough bolts out to be able to tip the floor pan up sufficiently that I was able to leave the floor/pedals in place, as you can see in the pic. Here's a bigger view, after the tube was back in place after I replaced the inner seal.
Any other questions about all this, start another post.
I did this to my '49 because my brakes were slipping, due to the leaking oil. Hopefully, Hugh's cure will be sufficient, but at least you can see what you'd be up against.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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