Posted by Bemhoff on January 04, 2009 at 14:26:48 from (98.21.28.110):
In Reply to: 1086 broken dowel posted by Andy Motteberg on January 04, 2009 at 08:24:12:
the tractor vet said: (quoted from post at 10:34:07 01/04/09) Just how good of a welder are ya ????? Now if i was to do this i would Pug weld a nut onto the stud and get a good weld to it then i would weld a bolt and then with a piece of 1 inch pipe and a heavy washer and a nut i would PULL the dowel pin out . Now unless ya plan to dril it on a milling machine or a radial drill press there ain't now way you will hit dead center then you will have a mess .
Thanks for the info Tractor Vet and sorry for the delayed response ( had to take a quick trip to my daughters ) I agree with ya that I may end up with a mess if I ended up drilling it. Right now I feel I have a 5/8 nut plug welded on pretty good, next I am going to drop a large flat washer over the nut. Then I am going to do something like you mentioned,l weld a 3/4 nut on top of the 5/8 nut. I should be able to use 2 pry bars with the flat washer tight aginst the larger top nut and pull it up out. If needed I can kinda twist the larger nut a little to help break the dowel free. Was just asking incase some one else had ran into this before, the real difficult part is the dowel is broke off about a 1/16" below the surface at a 30 degree angle or so. And of coarse that surface is part of the rear housing, not the lift arm housing. :( :( :( Thanks again, Bemhoff
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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