Hugh, I'm with Glynn Moore down below. You can, in the absence of major problems like cracks, do the motor yourself if you have the time, space, and inclination, for $1000 or less. Just to throw some numbers out, $400 for new jugs and pistons w/rings, A couple hundred for a valve job (you take the head in), $100 or so for gaskets. You could add a little more if new bushings for the piston pins are indicated. all of that can be done in-frame.
As far as evaluatin' your crank, you might want to do an in-frame check using plastigauge. If the clearances on the mains or rods are high, then it's probably worth splitting and taking the crank to a shop for evaluation. You may find that the crank is round in all respects but not worn enough to need grinding, in which case any excessive clearance can be cured with a new set of bearings. That said, there's something to be siad for grinding to specs while it's apart. Grinding, if it should need it, shouldn't run another $150, plus new bearings.
That's my view on the motor end. You know what condition the tin is in, and I can't claim any inside lines on places to find that particular kind of stuff, so I'll leave it there.
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