Whatever you do, DON'T SPIN THE CRANK. Each cylinder of that engine is nearly as big as an ENTIRE VW Beetle engine!! If it kicks backward and you are pushing down, you will break your arm for sure. The impulse coupling is what provides a hot spark, by spinning the magneto just after the piston goes over TDC. AND BE SURE YOU SET that impulse if it is a manual type. If you don't, the engine will fire before TDC and you will get a kickback (if you are pulling up, you probably won't get hurt if you don't have your face down near the crank and if you don't keep your arm in a position so the crank can come around and hit it). Originally, this tractor had a manually-operated impulse, but I think that in the 30s, IHC put on magnetos with automatic impulse couplings. Many of the oldtimers had their mags replaced by either later types (like an F-4, which was an easy adaptation, or something made by another company, like Fairbanks-Morse or Bosch). The later mags might have automatic impulses. If you can't see the impulse coupling, you can hear it "clink, clink" as the pawl drops into the notch in the drive coupling. If you don't hear the clinking sound as you are beginning the upward pull, stop and find out why there is no sound. The pawl needs a little lubrication to work well. It can also stick if it hasn't been used in a long time.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Traction - by Chris Pratt. Our first bout with traction problems came when cultivatin with our Massey-Harris Pony. Up till then, this tractor had been running a corn grinder and pulling a trailer. It had new unfilled rear tires and no wheel weights. The garden was already sprouting when we hooked up the mid-mount shovel cultivators to the Pony. The seed bed was soft enough that the rear end would spin and slowly work its way to the downhill side of the gardens slight incline. From this, we learned our lesson sinc
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