Posted by CNKS on October 19, 2008 at 14:42:12 from (216.144.104.128):
I installed this rebuilt clutch over a year ago, then moved, just now getting back to it. The old clutch worked ok, but I installed the new one as part of my "restoration". Regardless of adjustment, including the TA, it did not disengage. Split tractor and found a 1/32 deep by 1/8 inch wide groove on the side of the clutch disc that faces the flywheel. I did not have it resurfaced because it looked ok to me -- Wrong! There is a lip next to the inner circumference, that I will have machined out. Will take it to the machine shop tomorrow. Question is I have read of machining the "step" on the flywheel. I assume the step is where the clutch bolts to the flywheel -- should be machined the same amount as the flywheel surfaced is machined?? Also, although the flywheel looks ok otherwise, I have no idea how many times it has been machined, if at all. Is it possible to remove too much with repeated machining so that the clutch does not work right? Tachometer has low hours, but it did not work when I bought the tractor, so I have no idea of usage. Since 99% of the new disc is ok, I do not intend to replace it. Thanks in advance for any replies.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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