AS far as the rear weights . . . A lot of As were sold with the lighter stamped steel wheel on the left and the cast wheel on the right. Easier and less hassle than having two stamped wheels and adding a wheel weight to the right. At the same time, my neighbor just came into a 1940 A, stamped wheel on the left, cast on the right, and weights on both sides. In general, yes, you want any extra weight on an A to be on the right, to move the center of gravity in that direction and away from the short left side for stability. This would be even more important if you're going to keep the narrow front.
I'm not a puller, but it would seem to me that the extra weight of the longer diff shaft and housing on the left of a B/BN is free weight on the rear. They're not as heavy as you might think, certainly less than the 140# or so of an A/B wheel weight, probably more like 60#. Or looking at it in reverse, you're only eliminating 50-60# by shortening up the left side of a BN to an A configuration.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Traction - by Chris Pratt. Our first bout with traction problems came when cultivatin with our Massey-Harris Pony. Up till then, this tractor had been running a corn grinder and pulling a trailer. It had new unfilled rear tires and no wheel weights. The garden was already sprouting when we hooked up the mid-mount shovel cultivators to the Pony. The seed bed was soft enough that the rear end would spin and slowly work its way to the downhill side of the gardens slight incline. From this, we learned our lesson sinc
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