AS far as the rear weights . . . A lot of As were sold with the lighter stamped steel wheel on the left and the cast wheel on the right. Easier and less hassle than having two stamped wheels and adding a wheel weight to the right. At the same time, my neighbor just came into a 1940 A, stamped wheel on the left, cast on the right, and weights on both sides. In general, yes, you want any extra weight on an A to be on the right, to move the center of gravity in that direction and away from the short left side for stability. This would be even more important if you're going to keep the narrow front.
I'm not a puller, but it would seem to me that the extra weight of the longer diff shaft and housing on the left of a B/BN is free weight on the rear. They're not as heavy as you might think, certainly less than the 140# or so of an A/B wheel weight, probably more like 60#. Or looking at it in reverse, you're only eliminating 50-60# by shortening up the left side of a BN to an A configuration.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: What's The "Stuckest" You've Ever Been? - by Edited by Kim Pratt. Another great discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I was about 14 (part of the problem) when I got stuck. I was disking with a cab equipped IH 966. The window was dirty and I was driving into the evening sun. It was hard to see and it was my first pass down the field. I got the tractor so stuck that the underside of the tractor was resting on the ground. My uncle wanted
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