I forgot to add that you have to have the tractor in gear and driving it to determine anything with the TA. You also really need to drive it if at all possible in order to hear any other unusual noises that may indicate serious problems in the transmission, such as worn or chipped gears, failed bearings, etc. Unless I was getting the tractor dirt cheap, I would never buy one without driving it, if it was driveable. I'm only telling you this because I got burned once. Bought a tractor with a recently overhauled engine, which ran real sweet, but I couldn't drive it very far or open it up on the road before I bought it. When I got it home, I found it had a clunk in the rear end when going down the road. I pulled the top cover and found a bunch of teeth broken off three transmission gears, and some had gone through one of the bull pinion gears and had broken chunks out of three teeth. That was the clunk. Driving it won't tell you everything and you are always taking a chance when buying an old tractor, but at least you will have a little more peace of mind, especially if you are paying top dollar.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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