I had a machine shop do mine last year for about $1,500. Got the works, head checked, worked and shaved, valve job, block boiled, checked and planed the deck, new sleeves pistons, crankshaft turned, new ring gear on the flywheel, new engine and rod bearings, and the labor.
The problem you may have is if you just fix the bottom of the engine, (i.e, the pistons, rods, and bearings), the top of the engine, (the head), may be in need of attention too. Often a newly built bottom or top of engine magnifies problems in the other half that wasn't rebuilt. So you'd hate to sink $500 in it, then have something else go wrong again that would require going back into the motor.
If you're mechanically inclined, and enjoy working on things and have some time and space, you should do this, mostly yourself. These are some of the easiest motors to work on ever built. You'll end up being a tractor enthusiast. But if time is a factor and you want someone else to do it, you should be able to get the bottom fixed for under $1,000, and the whole motor worked and nice for under $2,000. Do most if it yourself, $800-$1,000.
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Today's Featured Article - Converting from 6 Volt to 12 Volt - by Chris Pratt. It's a common problem for old machines especially when the weather starts to dip below 40 and the tractor isn't fired up as often. You are probably used to the 12 volt Diehard, charged with 200 amp alternator of your 3/4 ton that always is ready and always starts. It's this type of experience that brings about the many queries we get for 12-volt conversion kits. Since only a few kits are available (we sell kits for the
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