The carb may need work, but with what you've been doin (especially if she was runnin' alright before you had the timing gear problem) I'd go back over my recent work if it was mine.
Did you wind up replacing the gear on the crank as well as the cam gear? Did both your replacements have the punch marks that were missing from your governor gear?
First thing I'd do is get her to crank and fire and die once more, then check whether your plugs are wet with gas. If not, then the crb might be suspect. If they are wet, I would sooner suspect something in the timing (either cam or spark) before the carb.
I don't mean to insult you, but ugly as it sounds, I'm gonna ask. Are you certain you had the motor at TDC on the *compression* stroke of #1 when you lined up the single punch marks between the cam and crank gears? If you matched up the punch marks with #1 at the top of the exhaust stroke (meaning #4 was at the top on compression),your cam and therefore the valves would be out of time. You can check that out by watching the valves as you bring #1 around to TDC on compression. As #1 comes up, the stems on both your front valves should be all the way up and not moving. At the same time, the exhaust valve on #4 (the eighth, very hindmost valve) should be open (down) and close when the motor comes up to TDC. If that's the case, and you had the punch marks lined up, your cam and valve timing should be okay.
If that's okay, then ask the same question relative to when you put the governor gear back in. If you were on exhaust instead of compression when you timed the mag, you'll be 180* out, with your spark on #4 when it should be on #1. That's easy enough to check. Bring the motor up to TDC #1 compression, and see where your distributor rotor is pointing. If it's on #1, that should be okay, too.
If those are both good, then it's time to look at the carb.
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