Bryan, a couple things. You say coil WIRES to the switch, there should only be ONE wire on the switches IGN (to coil) output and that wires to the coil input (NOT to distributor) terminal. The BAT input side of the switch gets hot batetry voltage from the ammeters Load (NOT battery/starter) terminal.
Next in cases where a GM 10 SI 3 wire alternator is used and its fed its excitation voltage (to alternators lil No 1 side terminal) from the coils input (or switches to coil IGN output) THE TRACTOR CAN STILL RUN WITH IGN OFF CUZ THE ALTERNATOR IS BACKFEEDING THE COIL.
The way I prevent that (run on even with IGN off) is by placing a 10 ohm current limiting safety resistor in series in the wire/circuit from the coil or switch to the alternators lil side No 1 terminal. Many people instead use a diode there which also works cuz it, as a one way electric current check valve, allows current into the alternator to excite it BUT not out the alternator to backfeed the coil. Its has to be wired correct polarity remember, - cathode end towards alternator (for Neg ground) .
PS if you used a GM 10 SI alternator or most any other alternator for that matter they require Negative ground remember. Also if a tractor was Pos ground and you change to neg ground the ammeter leads need reversed and the coil wires also reversed.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: What's The "Stuckest" You've Ever Been? - by Edited by Kim Pratt. Another great discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I was about 14 (part of the problem) when I got stuck. I was disking with a cab equipped IH 966. The window was dirty and I was driving into the evening sun. It was hard to see and it was my first pass down the field. I got the tractor so stuck that the underside of the tractor was resting on the ground. My uncle wanted
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