I would use 10 40 oil of good brand name, 15 40 diesel grade is also just fine. Single wt oil was recommended when the tractor was new because that was what was the best at the time. It is not the best any more. In cold operation, the oil remains thin enough to allow easy cranking, about the viscosity of the lower number, and as it warms the oil just doesn't thin as much as a thinner oil would. It stays at about the viscosity of the higher number. Synthetic viscosity modifiers are used to make mineral (petroleum) oil do that. In pure synthetic oils, (also good if 20 wt) there is no need for additives, and the oil can survive higher temperatures W/O breaking down. Plug gap (if running OK is fine as is. The wider the gap the more voltage is necessary to fire the plug. A few thousandths will not matter at all. Fuels have fewer deposit forming materials in them today, allowing much better plug life and performance. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review - by Staff. When we finally checked out the 3000 PSI North Star, the whole story chaned. This unit was equipped with an 11 HP Honda engine with fuel shutoff, adjustable flow and optional syphon degreaser dispenser. It didn't have a pressure release or electric start to facilitate easy starting but according to the instructions, simply pulling on the trigger while cranking was sufficient. This method of starting proved more than adequate and kept the cost down on the unit. It had all the important
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