Once that countershaft nut gets broken free it usually spins off easily by hand. Getting it broke free seems always to be a problem! A couple things that have worked for me. (Presumes you already locking the transmission gears�):
1 � Grab the nut with the biggest pipe wrench that can fit up in the belly and get a good bite on the nut. Some �strong arm� applied to the wrench handle will then break it free.
2 � Find a piece of square keystock that fits in the nut slot and is about 8� long. Lay one end of the keystock in the slot then give the free end a whack with a large hammer.
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Here�s another I�ve heard about but not tried: Weld a piece of keystock to a large (eg. 1-1/4�) hex nut. Place the keystock end of the welded nut/keystock into the slot, then use an impact on the nut to loosen the countershaft nut.
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Note! When reassembling the countershaft nut you only need to run it up hand tight � first time you use the belly pump the nut will tighten itself that last 1/16 turn or so!
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Today's Featured Article - Fabricating Sidesheets - by Chris Pratt. The easiest and best first-time project for wanna-be sheet-metal workers like myself is flat or nearly flat metal cut and drilled to be a tractor's sidesheet. A sidesheet is sheetmetal to cover either the engine as in the case of early Oliver's, Massey-Harris' and many crawlers or the wiring and electrical components as in the case of the Massey-Harris Pony, Allis Chalmers' D Series (D-14, D-15, D-12, D-10, D-17, and D-19). The need for fabricating becomes obvious when you go to buy any of these
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