Posted by Daniel H. on January 27, 2008 at 13:46:40 from (66.226.34.159):
In Reply to: 46 super a posted by John OCD on January 27, 2008 at 13:23:05:
Changing them isn't hard, it's getting to them that's the pain. You will have to securely support the rear of the tractor, wedge the front end and remove the final drives. While your in there, plan on changing the differential shaft seals, or your new brakes will be coated with oil before long. I would pick up an I&T manual (IH-8 ) from Tractor Supply or Binder Books, because it has exploded drawings. Also, it is very common for the right brake mounting casting to be worn out, which lets the pedal flop sideways and not pull on the brake. OEM Tractor Parts has new castings, or you can have yours bored out and brass bushing pressed into it by a local machine shop. The shaft may need repair as well. Be careful with the rear end off the ground, I would do one side at a time. See the wedges below Figure 51 A.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Traction - by Chris Pratt. Our first bout with traction problems came when cultivatin with our Massey-Harris Pony. Up till then, this tractor had been running a corn grinder and pulling a trailer. It had new unfilled rear tires and no wheel weights. The garden was already sprouting when we hooked up the mid-mount shovel cultivators to the Pony. The seed bed was soft enough that the rear end would spin and slowly work its way to the downhill side of the gardens slight incline. From this, we learned our lesson sinc
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