Sandblast them or sand them by hand, or use a fiber wheel on an electric drill. If rust is still in the pits use Picklex 20 or a similar cheaper product from Home Depot called Must for Rust, or some other protectant/converter. Those will convert or neutralize the rust. Then use body filler in the pits, sand smooth and prime with epoxy primer followed by a sandable surfacer. The epoxy gives a good bond to the metal, it is also waterproof. The sandable surfacer will fill any scratches caused by the other sanding procedure and leave a smooth surface to be top coated. Etch primer, although it can be used on old metal is not necessary because you have done the etching by sanding. Etch is mainly used by body shops on new metal that they do not wish to take the time to sand. Epoxy is the way to go. For the pieces you described it is the best primer there is.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabricating Sidesheets - by Chris Pratt. The easiest and best first-time project for wanna-be sheet-metal workers like myself is flat or nearly flat metal cut and drilled to be a tractor's sidesheet. A sidesheet is sheetmetal to cover either the engine as in the case of early Oliver's, Massey-Harris' and many crawlers or the wiring and electrical components as in the case of the Massey-Harris Pony, Allis Chalmers' D Series (D-14, D-15, D-12, D-10, D-17, and D-19). The need for fabricating becomes obvious when you go to buy any of these
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