Len I've used three different approches to rust, grinding, blasting and electrolysis.
If the part is small enough or you hae a tank big enough, electrolysis is great. After cleanup you can prime and paint.
Blasting is great if you're set up for it. Leaves things shinier than electrolysis and usually just needs an etching primer to get going.
Grinding with a twisted wire brush winds up being my most common method, especially for spots. Drawbacks are that some existing paint is the very devil to get off (but you at least have a good roughed up surface for a new coat of a compatible paint to adhere to) and it doesn't always get all the rust completely out of deep pits. In the latter case I use Jasco Paint and Prep (others use Ospho) after the grinding, both of which are phosphoric acid solutions that convert rust and iron to iron phosphate, kind of like bluing a gun barrel. Great stuff, easy to use. Treat it like a coat of primer, scuff it up and apply whatever comes next.
One caution is not to leave any bare metal laying around without getting something on it for a primer, whether that's an actual primer or the first coat of your paint. It can get a flash coat of rust in just a few hours, and you'll have to go back over it before priming or painting. Once you've got the bare metal primed, you can decide whether a filling primer or a putty would be better for filling the pits.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning Up Your Tractor: The Battery - by Curtis Von Fange. Buried somewhere beneath the sheetmetal, under the gas tank, or stuffed in front of the radiator is the battery. This elusive and neglected component of the tractor is the hardest to get to when it is dead and in need of a jump. But usually, the storage battery is a storehouse of electrical energy waiting to be released a the flick of a switch. A few maintenance tips and periodic cleaning will keep it charged for the duration of its life span. The battery is made up of a number of lead bas
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