Re: Farmall B

Posted by ScottyHOMEy on August 11, 2007 at 15:14:06 from (64.222.248.53):

In Reply to: Re: Farmall B posted by Dave H (MI) on August 11, 2007 at 14:31:21:

Oh, dear!

Good news is there's no time like the present! You need to be at TDC on #1 to check this out and fix it, so get there like I described below.

On the lifter side of the rocker is a threaded rod with a slot in the end, and a jam nut below it. While holding the slot steady with a screwdriver, back off the jam nut. (This may already be loose and what caused it to come apart in the first place.) Then use the screwdriver to back out the threaded rod until you can slip the lift rod back under the rocker without forcing anything.

Pull that lift rod up out of there and roll it on the flattest surface you can find, looking to see if it is bent. It should be straight. If it is bent, you'll need to replace it, but it could also be a sign of a stuck valve having caused things to come unsprung in the first place.

If the lift rod seems straight you can put it back in. It just drops into place. Before putting the rocker back over it, take a SMALL hammer and tap smartly without whacking on top of the valve and spring. Just enough to see if you can get ANY movement down and back up. If it doesn't move, or the hammer feels like it's hitting the head of a tight bolt, Or if it goes down and stays down, you likely have a stuck valve.

If it does move properly, you can reinstall the and reset the clearance with the rocker. The proper gap is .017" with the valves hot. You'll finsd a lot of discussion about what "hot" is and where to set the clearance on a "cold" engine. I use .018" in that circumstance. Back your jam nut off by hand a turn or two, and line the rocker arm back up over the lift rod and valve stem. Using your screwdriver, thread the rod back in until you get just the slightest tension on a .018" feeler gauge between the rocker and the valve stem. Holding the thread right where it is with the scredriver, tighten down the jam nut.

As far as the gunk, it's run with it so far. If you plan to go back in and check the valves "hot later, I'd leave it there for now. At some point, though, you need to go at it with some kerosene and a stiff parts cleaning brush, and don't spare the kerosene. It will all run back down to the crankcase, so you'll need to change at least your oil (before running the engine -- let it drain while you're checking your timing, and don't forget to put the drain plug back in before refilling!) and then do another change with filter after ten hours or so of running.

Replies:

• Re: Farmall B Dave H (MI) 18:19:18 08/11/07 (0)

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