Re: Professional Tinkering 6 to 12 volt

Posted by Dan on January 19, 2004 at 10:21:03 from (12.160.160.64):

In Reply to: Professional Tinkering 6 to 12 volt posted by Kevin Westling on January 19, 2004 at 07:27:49:

If you go by the wiring diagram for the conversion done by Bob M you can't go wrong. The light from the # one terminal is as mentioned below, like a diode to keep the system from back feeding when yo try to shut it off. Without it you can't shut off the engine. You can also use a diode or resister in the line, I used a resister on mine. The amp meter won't care what voltage it is unless it is illuminated and that will take a 12 volt bulb. Depending upon the size alternator though you may want a higher reading one. As far as the coil, there is a way to check resistance on it, if you search archives on this site you should be able to find it. If it was converted to 12 volt with internal resister you willnot need the ballist resister. Ballast resister is the cheap way to go, much cheaper than a new coil. Not sure if you can build up starter contact or not. If you get it hot enough to add metal you may melt somethign inside. I had mine converted to a bolt and used a solenoid and starter button instead of the lever. Worked for me but I'm not trying to stay original. If you take it to a starter rebuild place they can put a new contact lug on. In mine the guy changed the windings to 12 volt. Guys will say that the 6 volt is adequate and that is true if everything is right on it. I like the 12 volt conversion on my SMTA and JD430. I have had no problems with either but here again they are users, not showers.

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