What size Tractor?

HVAC22

Member
I want to purchase a Ford Model tractor to tend a garden with,Disc, bushog and use to maintain my driveway. I am in North Carolina and am looking at several tractors for sale. These are a 801 PowerHouse, 600 Workhorse,2000 and a 3000. I want a newer model than the 1950 Allis B I sold. Are these ok or am I looking at a tractor that is to large. Would like opinions for help in my purchase. Thanks
 
Fords are best. Just as there is no girl too pretty or car too fast, there is no tractor too big. These tractors that you mention are basically the same size, with the 801 being the most powerful at 46 PTO HP. The thousand series replaced the X01 series which replaced the X00 series but there is only about 15 years span from first XO1 to last X000. X000 have a lot more transmission speeds. The greater differences between them will be in condition. You should check the obvious things and take along a compression gauge and vacuum gauge in order to assist in internal engine assessment. Any of these would handle the jobs that you list but the 801 would handle a significantly larger disc than the 2000, and it would drink a lot more gas but for the hours that you would use it, that should not be a factor.
 
Thanks Jim! Its only 3 acres and the garden is less than 1/2 acre. The 600 is totally restored, like new about to nice to use @ $4500. The 2000 is a farm worker @ $2000. Thanks again from a lucky person whose dodged the crazy tornados this passed weekend.
 
The 601 Workmaster series claimed high 40's hp. The 800 Powermaster series claimed low 60's hp. The 2000 series claimed mid 30's hp and the 3000 claimed mid 40's hp.

I have a 3000 and use is to brush hog 30-40 acres and grade a 1/4 mile gravel drive. My 3000 also came with a fel, it made the back end pretty light so I put the box blade on it when using the fel. In my opinion I would not down grade to the 2000.
 
First of all they are a Powermaster and Workmaster. Not that that matters really.
My choice would be the 3000 as they had several years of refinements over their older sisters and IMO are superior machines.
However, the 600/800 tractors are fine machines and both would suit your purposes to a tee.
I guess the tractor that had the most features and was in the best condition would ultimately get my vote (and dollars).
Lots of guys here will tell you you hafta have live pto. I think on a tractor under 40 hp they are incorrect. I do like power steering though and would pick that over LPTO.
Skip the 3000 if it only has one stick on the tranny - you want two.
And don't forget that Ford made two 2000s.
A pre 1965 4 cylinder model which is the same as the 600 and the post 1965 three cylinder 2000 whis almost identical to a 3000.
 
I don't know where you are getting your hp numbers from TMo.
If I had to rattle off the numbers without looking them up I would say 600 and 4 cyl 2000 = 34 hp.
800 and 4 cyl 4000 = 45 hp

3 cyl 2000 = 33hp
3 cyl 3000 = 37 hp
3 cyl 4000 = 52 hp
 
For instance, external_link states 3000 engine 47 hp claimed and pto 38 claimed. I don't think my 3000 gets close to 47 hp engine, I don't have dyno info to prove or disprove though....it's just a hunch thing but my hunches are wrong alot.
 
Thanks, the 3000 does have the two sticks on the trans but it is a diesel and it sits out in the weather which concerns me. The owner did crank it and it fired up immediately. I was concerned that the 851 Powermaster or the 3000 might be to much tractor for the implements I will be using. If not thats cool too!
 
Yea, the guy with the 851 PowerMaster, which I have not seen yet, stated that the tractor was built for heavy, industrial work. As he ststed it has a large rear end, was used for logging sometime during it history. Sounds as if I could use larger disc or bushhog with it than the others.
 
I wouldn't specifically look for a trans driven pto when there is an opportunity to purchase a live pto.
Live pto is less opportunity for trouble. It would be safe to assume that 99% of people with a trans driven pto and a bush hog. That they will find other things to do with the time and $$$ instead of installing an over running clutch.
 
No not incorrect. Except that tractors are usually rated by how much HP they will put out the pto or through the wheels to the ground. So they don't put out full rated engine HP.
I think they might rate tractors by engine hp in Europe though. Someone can probably verify that.
 
I know you prefer lpto B&D. But I still say on a tractor under 40 hp it's a horse apiece.
As for time and money, you can buy a quick disconnect ORC for $65 or so, so really not a big issue there.
 
Mind you that a lot of the Ford industrials of that era did not have PTO of any kind and also some had no 3 point. If I was faced with buying a Ford with no pto or 3 point I'd buy an Allis WD for half the price.
 
I would go with the 2000 or at best the 3000,depending on the condition of these 35-40 year old tractors.I owned a 2000 many years ago and it served me well for many years.Mine had power steering,selecto-speed transmission,540 RPM PTO,Home made ROPS top and a Farm Hand Loader which got lots of work outs.Numerous small 3 point hitch tools made it a very versatile little tractor.All my other tractors were AC of different models and I always got the question ,"How come the Ford ?" and my answer was "It was here first". Really it wasn"t but no one needed to know any differently.JH
 
Of all of those, I'd go with the Oliver 550. The size and convenience of an 8N, but with independent (not just live) PTO, and 40 horsepower.

I bought one about 35 years ago, and have always said it will be the only tractor in my estate sale. Which means, I better get humpin' and get rid of the rest of those turkeys I've got layin' around here.
 
3000 will be better all around... but will and should cost more, and will sell for more.

2000 with a 4 speed is not much of a tractor, ,if has 8 speed, it also is a great tractor, but just shy of the 3000 in hp. so.. buy best or buy cheap.. your call.
 
So I guess the diesel engine is just as good to have in your tractor as the gas. Owner of the 3000 has called and offered a 4000 and a 4020 John Deere for the same price as the 3000. Decisions are starting to become more difficult.
 
I love my 3000 diesel, and I bet you would love yours too. It's easy on fuel when working, and has an amazing amount of torqe. As for it sitting out concerning you, that should actually be a plus. At least you know what your buying, and if you want to pretty it up later then go for it. Here is a picture of mine, notice I never did pretty it up other than putting a new seat on it (I kept the original, may recover it some day). As for it being too big for some of your implements, no sir.
You will also find a great amount of help over on the Ford board if you need it, super bunch of guys there. Go for it!
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I like your take! Glad to hear the feedback on the diesel engine. I really liked the thought of the diesel but don't get much feedback from people on them other than some saying they will be more expensive to repair and keep-up.
 
That is true, repairs can be costlier on any diesel. If the pump needs to be rebuilt, your talking big bucks. BUT, it's pretty rare you have to do anything with the pump unless your putting tons of hours on the tractor. Other than the engine, the rest of the tractor is basically the same as the gas powered machine so any repairs should be the same cost. Mine has been basically repair free other than the 3 point wouldn't lift when I bought it but with the help of a manual that I bought and the guys help on the Ford forum I got it working perfectly for less than 50 bucks. I did have to buy a battery after a few years and since they are big (if you buy the correct one) they run about 100 bucks, but that was a bargain to me as I got tired of jumping it off when I needed it. Good part with a diesel, it will run without a battery so once it was jumped off I could go all day as long as I didn't kill it.
Oh yea, I have run it out of fuel a few times and priming it can be sort of a pain, but I've gotten it running again within 5 minutes each time.
Here is mine the day I got her home, Februry '05. Notice the seat and you will understand why I found it necesarry to put an aftermarket seat on. Oh, and this was a one owner tractor when I bought it. 1971 model.
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Great tractor! Does the 3000 have the class I lift or are they heavier. The info I have looked at on the web states the class I is maxed out at 1200 lbs.
 
the ford 3000 diesel has amazing pulling power.
i had people laugh at me when i hooked onto some of the things i did.
one knot head had his four wheel drive jeep stuck in mud to just below the doors. he said "that little tractor will NEVER pull me out".
i said "we will see". piece of cake he came out of the mud hole like cork out of a bottle. i spun the tires on purpose he had to clean his windows when i got done.
 
Cat 1. Pretty common that up to 50 HP is Cat 1.
As for the 1200 pounds, are you talking lifting weight or pulling weight? I have pulled the front wheels off the ground on mine several time using the boom pole, but as for pulling.....mine has wheel weights and the rears are loaded with calcium and as long as I don't bury it or somehow spin the rear tires I think this old gal would pull almost anything I hung on the rear.
We had a large tree fall near the house a few months ago and I cut most of the brush off it and decided to pick up the large section with the tractor and move it into the shade to cut and split the wood. Discovered it was a bit heavy as the front end raised up, but then considering it was tied off about 5 feet behind the tractor that's not unusual. Still moved it, just sort of drug one end along on the ground so I had a little bit of steering!
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3000 is sill cat/class one 3 point. It will lift more than an 800 because it is heavier. It will just about out do a 800 at most tasks though it is rated a few less hp. It is likely to have differential lock which the 4 cyl Fords did not have. A 3000 diesel would just sip fuel compared to an 800 gasser though an 800 diesel would sip likewise and be a joy to own. They will have just about the same foot print = wheelbase and turning radius. 3000 a little taller. Again, skip a 3000 with a single stick, hold out for twin stick and it will likely have lpto to boot.
Downsouth yours looks like a honest rig. Not prettified it shows if anything is leaking, bent, cracked or mangled so you know what you are buying. I like it.
 

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