Trying to save gas

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Trying to figure what is the best driving type for my gas sucking 96 Dodge V10. I am pulling my MF mower. I'll be surprised if I get 7 mpg. I try to keep my foot out of it on the straingt, but going up hills should I just let it chug up the hill, or peddle to the metal and get to the top fast? Stan
 
Don't worry about the gas pedal. If you throw away the brake pedal, the gas pedal will regulate itself. That means you won't be going any faster than it's safe. Of course this won't apply to long, steep downhill runs. In this case slam the shifter into low or find a bigger truck to rear end. Or a small car to front end. Good luck.
 
It is a misconception that opening the throttle decreases mileage. This idea originated in the days of carbureted engines, where accelerator pumps and power enrichment circuits wasted fuel every time you stepped on the gas. Fuel injected engines don't work that way; they use exactly the amount of fuel necessary for stoichiometric burn.

Actually, gasoline engines (particularly fuel injected ones) are most efficient at wide open throttle. At lower throttle settings there are throttling losses that increase specific fuel consumption. That's one reason overdrive gears help fuel economy: the engine has to be run at a higher throttle setting when it's in a higher gear in order to produce the same power as it would in a lower gear.

You can squeeze a bit more mileage out of your vehicle by using the highest possible gear for hill climbing. That's easy enough to do with a manual transmission; with an automatic try to hold the throttle just short of the point where it will kick down to a lower gear, letting the vehicle decelerate a few mph if necessary.
 
The owners manual to my triaxle dump truck advised using hills to improve mileage, by letting off as you approach the crest and allowing speed to drop a little, then regain it on the downside. This truck has cruise, and the motor pulls well down to 800 RPMs, which makes it easy to keep it in the higher gear as has been mentioned. But you should aim to gradually lose speed on hills to keep it from downshifting. Also getting a little "run" at the hill will help to keep it from shifting down.I used to average 6.5 MPG carrying 23 tons one way.
 
I know a guy that leaves his parked, said he would get rid of it if he used it more than once in a great while and if it wasn't paid off. he bought new and said he wishes he had got a diesel.
Here's a site with people saying about the same on gas mileage with no hope.
You'd be better off getting a Chevy 3/4 w/ 350 for $1500-2500 w/ twice the mileage.
4 8 mpg
 
My experience with boats is that if I run them at about 80% throttle, it takes me about 10% longer to get across the lake but I use only about 2/3's the fuel as compared to wide open throttle. I've always assumed that cars were about the same way when you get to hills.
 
I had customer with couple of those beasts . We did Motorvac injector service , clean throttle plates , sync'd distributor. Got one up to 14 mpg empty and 10 with big camper. Oh course this all depends on gearing and driving habits .
 
I thought for sure that had a coil on plug system without a dist. ? so how would you sync it ?

Maybe some had them ?
 
putting on a k&n saves gas on the new computer controlled air mixture engine????

I'll call bs on that one. the gas is metered based on air flow..
 
Buzzman72 said a short sentence that means
everything..
1st of all you can"t get fuel mileage with
anything when your foot is too the floor.
1800 RMP max, if you have a Stick shift down
shift going up hills rather than to lug the
engine with your foot in it. I coast all I
can don"t idle for long periods of time.
Everything adds up.. But I will say, anyone
who purchase"s a 460 Ford 454 Chevy or any of
the V10"s out in the market didn"t purchase
that vehicle for Fuel Mileage & one shouldn"t
spend hundereds of dollars trying to find it
cause they wern"t ever designed for Mileage.
Purchase a puddle jumper 4cyl for your daily
commutes & save the big block for the days
you need the POWER..
 
Showcrop,

With my motor home if traffic conditions allow it I try to do as you said. If I see a hill or small grade ahead I try to slowly build up speed and then ease it over the crest. If I am towing a vehicle behind that is especially helpful as most of the time it will not shift out of overdrive unless it is a larger hill. If I left it on cruise control I would probably have to keep it out of overdrive when towing because on any medium grade it will shift down.
 
Sure you can! Just depends on what you're comparing it to. My '01 F350 with the V10, 5-speed and 3.73's averages 2 m.p.g. more than my old truck, which had a 2bbl. 351, 4-speed and 3.73's.
 
We did some experimenting lately with our 07 Silverado. We zero the computer and then see what the average mileage was after one mile, using different acceleration techniques. This has to be done on level highway with no wind to effect the outcome. My wife hated to admit that I was right, slow easy acceleration was by far the best, she insisted that faster would be the same because we were going faster quicker. We have numerous stop signs on the way to the farm with very little traffic so we can do this without unnecessary driving or being a hazard.
 
I guess you read the one w/ 5mpg more than others, most of them doubted his mileage.
 
(quoted from post at 00:03:03 04/20/11) Trying to figure what is the best driving type for my gas sucking 96 Dodge V10. I am pulling my MF mower. I'll be surprised if I get 7 mpg. I try to keep my foot out of it on the straingt, but going up hills should I just let it chug up the hill, or peddle to the metal and get to the top fast? Stan

As far as the amount of energy required to raise a truck/trailer/load up 200 feet elevation. It takes exactly the same amount of energy at 5 mph or 50 mph.
The numbers become complex as losses from friction, aerodynamic drag and braking are considered. Now figure what ground speed, engine rpm, throttle opening and where the air/fuel goes rich under high power.
As previously stated. If you want mileage, purchase a cracker box. If you want power and stability. Pay for the fuel to make and haul the capability around.
Mileage is about reducing aerodynamic drag which increases with a square to velocity. And using the brakes less. The number of people that as standard practice wail up to within 100yrds of a stop sign. Then lift the foot off the throttle and immediately heavy brake to barely stop in time. It's baffling as to why.
 
Hook a vacuum gauge to your intake manifold and note the highest reading on straight and level at desired speed. On the gentler hills try to maintain this same vacuum reading. You'll find yourself lifting your foot slightly and sacrificing some rpm and speed. When you go over the other side let the vehicle coast up to regain the lost speed.

What you're doing with this is trying to maintain a constant load on the engine. It will work best when empty. In any case do not let the engine lug or you will get on the back side of your power curve and mileage will once again decrease. Downshift if necessary to try to keep the vacuum gauge in range.

By itself I can milk 15 mpg out of my 82 chevy dually with 454, quadrajet and cast iron exhaust. Pulling though I'm back down to 10. With a heavy load you'll just have to forget about mileage and get the job done!

My '81 Camaro with 350 returns 26 mpg on the highway but it's setup just for that. 2.73 with overdrive, tuned Q-jet and headers, tight quench and short cam. Before that I tried a 292 straight six and it returned 28 mpg, but was just an old stock motor out of a 2-ton.
 
thats impressive , lot to be learned from Your ideas, , i have found chevys do run more effeciently than fords when empty , got a sweethear t 283 in a c-60 , however when they got a load to carry they need the gas to get the job done ,dont matter which badge they are sporting ..
 
Thanks! None of it happened by accident. It's taken years and lots of patience to get things working like that.

We're so used to big motors in big trucks that now it's a curiosity to see a small block in one. But it was a big deal to upgrade to a v-8 when they first came out. A winding 283 will certainly get the job done in a low geared 2-ton!
 

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