Present Day Motor Oil

Jiles · Apr 17, 2011

Although I am referring to a Lawn Tractor, this is also a concern for me with my larger Tractors.
I have an older mower with Koher 16HP twin engine. I have only had this machine for a short time and it is exceptional--has 320 original hours and the oil needs changed from time use and looks new. In its day---Kohler states that they recommend a 30W high detergent for all temperature. They further state that a given multi-grade oil can be used with operating temperatures [b:c23845ecc4]up to 40 degrees only????????? [/b:c23845ecc4][b:c23845ecc4]They claim use of multi-grade oil will increase oil consumption and can cause engine deposits.
If I am understanding this --IT DOES NO MAKE SENSE!![/b:c23845ecc4]Kohler does not mention synthetic oil for this engine. I am well aware that major changes have been made with modern day oils but this machine has always used Mobil One 30W Synthetic oil. I have checked with several suppliers and I am unable to find a 30W synthetic even though I am told it is still on the market.
As I see it--I have two choices--
Use a multi-grade full synthetic, like 10W30 Mobil One. or
Use a premium oil like Dello 30W Petrolium oil that I use in my other machines.
Some opinions would be appreciated.

BCnT · Apr 17, 2011

i own a small engine repair shop and also a Briggs dealer...small engines other than snowblowers and outboards operate in severe dust conditions...they require frequent oil changes...why anybody would buy the expensive synthetic oils is beyond me on this type of engine duty...use a good quality 30W and change it regularly.

Jiles · Apr 17, 2011

(quoted from post at 18:30:30 04/17/11) i own a small engine repair shop and also a Briggs dealer...small engines other than snowblowers and outboards operate in severe dust conditions...they require frequent oil changes...why anybody would buy the expensive synthetic oils is beyond me on this type of engine duty...use a good quality 30W and change it regularly.

That is my thought also--Since most manufacturers recommend the same oil change interval. However, I do not want to change from synthetic to petrolum oil unless it is necessary.
I have posted this question on three different forums and have received a lot of conflicting replys.
I have done extensive research on "motor oils" but this is an unusual situation.
I have used Chevron Dello 30W for many years with no complaints and I personally think I will be OK to use Dello 30W in this application.
When the seller stated he used Synthetic, I thought--- oh no!! Especially when I live in N.W. Alabama.

MPK · Apr 17, 2011

I have a mower with an 18 HP kohler twin and have always used 10w - 30 and it's in perfect shape yet. This one is 23 years old now but I don't have as much to mow now as I used to.

Bob · Apr 17, 2011

I'll vote for continuing with the Mobil 1.

It's a GREAT oil for withstanding the high heat of an air-cooled engine.

The only downside is cost, and, for the little used in an OPE engine that's not even a big deal.

I've used it for YEARS in the half-dozen or so little air-cooled engines I deal with with NO reason to think it isn't doing a good job.

For example, I've seen a number of instances where a Briggs OHC will nibble up a pushrod that falls out of place 'cause of a sticky valve and those problems END when running good synthetic.

Anonymous-0 · Apr 17, 2011

I bet it wouldn't make that much difference if you used 30W or 10W-30/10W-40. 30 weight was the recommended oil for most small engines for years but Robin Subaru specifies 10W-30 for their engines. I don't think there's that much difference between smaller air cooled engines. Keeping the oil at the proper level and changing it regularly is the most important part. It's not like it's a 2 stroke GM diesel or a motorcycle/transmission application that does require a more specific oil.

Russ from MN · Apr 17, 2011

I attended a lubrication seminar once put on by
Mobil and the subject evolved to lawnmowers. He
said by all means use synthetic but if its going to
be stored a long time (over 30 days) it should be
changed to petroleum and run a little to coat the
engine parts. The reason synthetic is so good it
has less cling effect, less friction, but it will
drain off and leave bare metal after 30 days.
Therefore I would just use 30 wt.

Jiles · Apr 17, 2011

(quoted from post at 19:01:34 04/17/11) I attended a lubrication seminar once put on by
Mobil and the subject evolved to lawnmowers. He
said by all means use synthetic but if its going to
be stored a long time (over 30 days) it should be
changed to petroleum and run a little to coat the
engine parts. The reason synthetic is so good it
has less cling effect, less friction, but it will
drain off and leave bare metal after 30 days.
Therefore I would just use 30 wt.

Huummmm--DRY starts after 30 days :?: :?:
This is surprising because, over the years of mechanic work, I have noticed that my oil drain pans will have a "slicker" film remaining after draining synthetic oils. Petrolium oil leaves a different type film and less slippery. :?:

bobs old iron · Apr 17, 2011

it use to be that the old mowers used non-detergent oil,to keep from foaming up, find that now. they say to use detergent oil now, for the amount used, changing it every season. oil is oil, whatever i has around i use, haven't blown up yet. i also agree with all.

buickanddeere · Apr 17, 2011

Straight weight vs multi weight all other factor
identical. Is a slightly better lube and leaves
slightly fewer deposits. Detroit Diesel specs a
straight weight oil for a reason in two strokes.
Synthetic is an excellent idea. The cost
difference is of no consequence given the small
amounts of oil.
Synthetic oil will allow easier cold weather
starts. Less strain on manual or electric starting
systems.
Air cooled engines in particular will benefit
from a true synthetic oil's high heat resistance.
Real synthetic is only sold by Amsoil, Mobile
1, Shell Rotella T6, Red Line, Royal Purple and
Lubrication Engineers.
Castrol's treated dinosaur oil is not synthetic.
If an engine is an oil burner. A low ash oil
such as SF-2 rated or oil for 2007 and later
emissions diesels. There will fewer engine
deposits.

Anonymous-0 · Apr 17, 2011

Someone gave me a 55 gal drum with roughly 20 gallons of Pennzoil 10/40 remaining. At that point, the decision on what oil to use in lawn tractor/push mower/tiller became an easy one. 7 years later, I haven't regret my decision. Not exactly a lab test, but I'm good with the results.

With todays oils, it almost really is "oil is oil".

mmidlam · Apr 17, 2011

If I remember right, the air cooled engines should not use an oil with a rating newer than SL. There will be less ZDDP in the newer rated oils.

Hay_Man · Apr 17, 2011

I heard something on the radio today that made me almost run off the road, my jaw dropped so hard. A commercial for Valvoline. Said it is a "Green" motor oil, protecting the enviroment by using 50% recycled motor oil in blending its motor oil products. I knew there was a reason I never put that stuff into any engine of mine. But I have used it as chain oil on occasion.

Anonymous-0 · Apr 17, 2011

What do you think they do with all the oil they collect from lube shops and service stations? It's re-refined and just as good or better than new. Oil never loses it's lubricating ability, it just gets contaminated so it's not as effective. Do think the oil that comes out of the ground is clean? Kind of like recycled paper. You can't tell the difference unless it says recycled on the package.

Kruse · Apr 17, 2011

My post is changing the original subject, but I heard the announcement for the green oil back in January. (I think)
They hyped it up in February and I just saw some of that stuff in my local WalMart.
It was about $4 a quart.
I know a lot of other companies have tried to sell re-refined oil, with limited success, but we'll see how the greenies buy the stuff from a well-known company.
I personally wouldn't be afraid to use it, but not at that price.

Anonymous-0 · Apr 17, 2011

Maybe the pilots out there can chime in on what is used in piston aircraft engines.

Bryan inIowa · Apr 17, 2011

Valvoline "Next Gen " green oil was introduced march 5th of this year . Claim it's 50 % recycled , new additives etc ,supposed to be great stuff , not sure of the pricing yet . It is a NEW product they are offering in addition to their usual oils

ErnieD · Apr 17, 2011

Air cooled engines typically run higher oil sump temperatures and multi weight oils thin faster than straight weight oils.

I have a 2 cyl kohler air cooled cub cadet hydro. #2 daughter called me at work to say it spewed oil all over the place. She had checked the oil and did not screw the cap back on properly. I don't know how long she had run it, but it took a full amount of oil to refill.

Engine still runs. I use synthetic oil to reduce oil changes to once a year, give added protection, give better fuel economy. Over the past 5 years with blown head gaskets, low oil close calls where I am not the operator it has saved me bux.

My '98 Chev 1500 w/350 with the cold start knock was the test bed for a dino/syn comparison. I am convinced of the superior lube qualities.

Geo-TH,In · Apr 17, 2011

I have a 20 hp Kohler commando with over 1000 hours. I use 10w40 year around. It doesn't use oil for the first 75 hours. Then when it goes down between full and add oil, I change the oil and filter. 2 quarts of oil and a filtr is cheap. I run a step hotter plug too and it runs very clean.

OliverGuy · Apr 17, 2011

Guess I"ve got a side question on this if someone can help. I have many air cooled Kohlers, Kawasaki"s and some Briggs that regardless of the book I up the oil/filter change interval up to 50 hours (some say 100 hours) and use the mostly recommended 10w-30. We go through 50 hours in a matter of a few weeks on some machines. Never really have any problems and engines go 2500+ hours before rebuild. Question--am I money ahead by going longer on changes and goiny synthetic or something else? I don"t mind what I"m doing, except for buying those $400 and some dollar barrels of oil and oil filters by the case!! By the way, I have 5 Kawasaki 12.5hp singles that have 9 to 10,000 hours each on my current service plan and haven"t been apart yet. Just looking for any insight. Thanks.

John M · Apr 17, 2011

T6, qat one time, was NOT a true synthetic. Could you please tell me where you got that part of your info, as I would like to verify that it is now a true syn.

jbp · Apr 17, 2011

Just bought a new Grasshopper 223 last week with a 23 HP Kohler. The engine book said not to use synthetic oils until after the initial 50 hour oil change. Change oil every 100 hours there after with 10w30, recomending synthetics.

Joe

Kentb of SWMO · Apr 17, 2011

I have ran two Briggs 14.5 HP OHV engines for years with Mobil ONE 10W-30. I change it ONCE a year in the spring. NO problems yet. On of these engine,one was a Brand New repower for my Father-in-Laws Snapper mower. This engines Code number is:060117ZD. The only oil this engine has had in it was 30W Pennzoil for five hours of break-in and five changes of Mobile ONE 10W-30. ALL of my generators with small engine have Mobile ONE 10W-30. I have one 5000 Watt generator with a 11 HP Briggs L-head that is LP fueled. I ran it for SIX days/144 Hour without a oil change and only shut it down FOUR times to check the Mobile ONE 10W-30 oil.
The likely reason the owner manual does not mention synthetic oil is because you engine was built before synthetic oil was widely available. Oils have changes a lot in the last 10 year. Some for the better, some for the worse IE no ZDDP in many oils that flat tappet cams need especially if running stout valve springs.

Kent

buickanddeere · Apr 17, 2011

Shell has a tech question area on their site. Should ask and find out for certain.

Geo-TH,In · Apr 18, 2011

I would say that if you got 10,000 hrs on an air cooled engine, then if it ain't broken why change what you are doing?

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