93 Chevy 1500 brake problem revisited.

Old Roy · Apr 13, 2011

Ok Today I replaced the master cylinder.
bench bled it, and plugged the ports as described. removed the old cylinder and hooked up the lines.
Had an assistant hold the metering valve as I pumped the peddle and another assistant opened the bleeders on each wheel as described in the Chilton's manual Furthermost from the master cylinder first and work back to shortest .

Seems to get full peddle with engine off after pumping twice-- hold peddle and start engine the peddle will go down to about 2" from floor.

Bled them again took it for road test, no such thing as a panic stop and still a mushy peddle.

What am I doing wrong ??

Zachary Hoyt · Apr 13, 2011

I was trying to help a neighbor who had brake problems in a 98 or 99 tacoma last year. He lost his brakes a couple of hours away and had to get towed and a shop worked on the brakes. On the way home the pedal got mushier and mushier and when he got here he asked me to help bleed them. We bled and bled and never could get it right, when he had it towed back to the shop that did the work they said the equalizer wwas bad and that was why we couldn't bleed it. I do not understand how it works, but it is supposed to equalize the braking force between the two rear wheels.
Zach

504 · Apr 13, 2011

Did you check and adjust the rear brakes?

Old Roy · Apr 13, 2011

Yes we did, and I put new pads on the front and a new rotor as well.

Problem started long before pads were replaced though . One day I had to spike them pretty good loaded , got spongier as time went along. front pads weren't that bad -- one side came apart.

Bob · Apr 14, 2011

I'm 100% behind you up 'til "Had an assistant hold the metering valve".

WTF????

ASEguy · Apr 14, 2011

Pumping the brakes to get a full pedal that is hard usually means the rears are out of adjustment. After you replaced the rear brakes the shoes self centered upon initial application so you may need to re-adj. the rears. Make sure the e-brake is not hanging up as this can affect the adjustment. Is the brake light on? If it is, pull the connector off of the combination valve and see if it goes out. Brake pedal quality on that vehicle is checked with key off and vacuum destroyed in the booster. So pump the pedal several times after the engine is shut off, let it sit for a couple of seconds and try it. Hope this helps. Gerard

chevdud97 · Apr 14, 2011

If it has abs you have to have the key on engine off. Pump the brakes then jab it hard and hold em down then bleed. repeat. the abs module has to be energised for you to bleed them correctly.
i had the same problem when i was working on a similar truck. good luck

Old Roy · Apr 14, 2011

Chiltons book shows the Metering valve- behind the Electronic Control module on the front of it is a rubber cover over the end. they also show a special tool to use to hold it in place--- or use an assistant.I had two helpers.

Old Roy · Apr 14, 2011

We adjusted the brakes -- this was done when we had previously put on rear wheel cylinders-- brakes havn't seemed right since then but did work till the front pad came apart

Old Roy · Apr 14, 2011

Just called assistant he will be over this evening will try that --- Thanks !

93 Chevy 1500 brake problem revisited.

Old Roy

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Zachary Hoyt

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504

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Old Roy

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Bob

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ASEguy

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chevdud97

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Old Roy

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Old Roy

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