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spark plug screwup SAGA

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
been having atime getting the truck rite ,, it has a rambling miss .. took out champions .Put 124Autolite plugs in the 391 F 600grain truck , gapped at 40 kas per autozone advice , based on it being a 1979 build year from previous owners . took valve covers off to see if the miss was caused by bent pushrod or somethin , cleaned the sticker and realized I had the wrong Plugs in there sticker plate stated jan.1975 build date .. , And definately gapped to wide , Gonna reset at 30k and see if that makes difference , If still misses and sputters gonna get auolite45s , called ,autozone dude, he has no idea why i was given 124 plugs instead of 45s , and of course they can't be returned, ..consequently because of the rambling miss , we Rebuilt 4 barrell holley , new cap , points /condensor and wires ,, been like killing snakes trying to get this Ford to run Smooth ,, gets 5mpg loaded .. and how was your month ?
 

Just a hunch, but you might check the electrical connections on the ignition coil. Ford loved to use those "push-on" connectors, and sometimes they get loose and will cause symptoms such as you describe.
 
I never could get any 390/1 I ever had to run correctly at idle speed and at full speed since leaded gas went away. If I time them correctly to spec the knock, bang, and miss. Play with the timing a tad and they will miss at idle but run like a champ on the road.

Finally sent my last big block Ford away on the slow boat to China last year.
 
I've got a Ford 360 that has a quirky idle. Runs pretty good above idle, pulls good too. I've been wondering about the distributer bushings being worn. And also the EGR valve. Your's probably doesn't have an EGR valve. Mine is intermittent. . . Wish it would just quit - then I could fix it.

Let us know what fixes it.

Paul
 
Plugs are tapped at the factory for that specific plug, any change will cause problems. The gap is set by the plug type not the engine if the engine specs say different then you have the wrong plug. Find out which plug is correct for the engine and leave the gap alone. Also check for loose connection and corrosion in the wiring. Put it on a scope to see which cylinder is causing the problem all of the spikes should be even in height. Get someone who has been properly trained on the scope. Hard to find I know.
Walt
 
had a 68 F250 360 auto
it ate the timing chain then a new distribitor
gave it to my brother he pulled the engine out and then decided not to rebuilt it and it got sent to scrapyard

anyway later found out that engine is known for the oil pump to drag as it gets miles on and the oil pump is driven off of the bottom of the distribitor. so sll it really needed was a new oil pump and new valve seals

good luck

Ron
 
75 model year points all went away. Is the distributor shaft loose in it"s buhings? If it is, you will have random misfires no matter what you do. A point system doesn"t want more than a .030 plug gap.
 
Thanks for the comments Ron. This is a pretty fresh engine. Runs real good most of the time, but sometimes I have to hop out and run the idle screw up or down for some reason yet unknown to me. Gonna dig into it earnestly in a couple of days. It's an old toy. . .

Paul
 
(quoted from post at 14:26:02 04/12/11) Thanks for the comments Ron. This is a pretty fresh engine. Runs real good most of the time, but sometimes I have to hop out and run the idle screw up or down for some reason yet unknown to me. Gonna dig into it earnestly in a couple of days. It's an old toy. . .

Paul
Click to expand...

Replace the carburetor base gasket, Remove the EGR and make a block off cover to replace it. Test the vacuum advance for leaks and function, and if the hose supplying it is still connected through the temperature sensor thing, pull the hose off and connect it directly to the source of vacuum.
 
you sure on that about the gap? plugs could be intended for multiple makes of engines. Just asking. bill m.
 
Man I've been wanting to get rid of that EGR thing. Thanks for the encouragement. My son the mechanic has been preaching the same sermon. . . Sometimes it will run perfect until it reaches operating temperature, then it will slowly drop idle speed until it dies. A slight touch of the idle screw (linkage) will make it happy. Other times I'll have to slightly lower the screw to keep it from racing.

Consistency is what I desire. . .

Paul
 
Bill kits the plug determine the gap not the engine, a lot people make that mistake because years ago before we were born there were only a few plugs and they had to set for their use.
Walt
 
"the push on clips at the coil".. the wire would break inside the insulation just as it went into the clip.. would cause it to suddenly die.. replace wire and clip and it fixed the dieing problem. however this sounds like a different problem. check for burnt valve, check for vacum leak, check for carb full of rubber gas. check dist for worn bushings or steady dwell reading. check for bad pvc valve and bad egr valve and or burnt plate under carb at point of egr valve injection....
 
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