Getting an old Ford 9N to run again.

Beatles65 · Mar 29, 2011

My great uncle has an old Ford 9N and he wants me to go and help him get it running. It was running last fall, and when it was running he had to have the choke pulled out all the way to keep her going. Ever since last fall he has not run the tractor and now it will not start.
He lives about an hour away from me and I think this weekend sometime we are going to go down and see if we can fix the tractor.
I figure that the reason for it not starting is the carb it gummed up. Plan on taking new plugs, wires, tune up kit, etc. and carb chemical dip to get the tractor running again. But, we might have to go further and rebuild the carb and clean the passages.

I have never messed with a Ford carburetor before, only John Deere.

What are the correct drill bits for clearing the carburetor passages?

What Plugs does it take?

Any other advice would be very appreciated!
Thanks for the help!
From Denton, Nebraska.
Andrew Kean

old · Mar 29, 2011

See your other post in the N forum

Cienna · Mar 30, 2011

If you're going to go through the carb, all I'd use would be the spray carb-and-choke cleaner, and then a high pressure blast of air. Drill bits could damage the metering jets. I've done lots of carbs and been successful with this method.

Tony in Mass. · Mar 30, 2011

A fuzzy pipe- smoking pipe- cleaner is a better object to stick down the passages than a drill. If there is an auto zone or something near you, get the gallon can of carb cleaner, take it appart and soak the whole thing in the can for a couple weeks, change the gaskets and screws, not necessarily the brass seats, if you strip one of them you are in bad shape, back the adjusting screws one and a half turns, and see if it fires. All updrafts might need choking, some even in the middle of summer, like my fergies and AC CA. An often overlooked thing with this model is the coil, once very expensive, cheap at tractor supply or on here since I had mine. A real pain to clean this and the points, but, it is a glorified model T, so that's where it is. I like to wire brush the spark plugs on things that have been setting all year. If these things don't help... I'm out of ideas. good luck!

Mike (WA) · Mar 30, 2011

Don't touch the carb until you check the fuel flow out of the tank. Take off the sediment bulb, turn on fuel, you should have a steady stream, not a drip (or even a fast drip). If less than a steady stream, drain tank and unscrew sediment bulb base, and clean out tank.

If you don't want to go "the whole route" and coat the inside of the tank, put a little "standpipe" in the fuel outlet from the tank- about a 1" piece of copper tubing that fits in the outlet (usually 5/16)- this lets the crud build up on the bottom of the tank without getting into the sediment bulb, because the fuel will be coming from an inch above the bottom of the tank.

There may also be a little filter built into the carb, where the fuel comes in. Clean that, also.

Fred Martin · Mar 30, 2011

I'm too lazy to do all the recommendations. I seem to find crud on the points...just file them to clean them up and pull it around the barnyard and it might just be your lucky day.

PS Some new fresh fuel too. ohfred

Anonymous-0 · Mar 30, 2011

I used to own one and remember the front mounted distributor being troublesome. It was especially prone to moisture problems. I assume you will check for a good spark before you tear apart the carb.

Getting an old Ford 9N to run again.

Beatles65

Member

old

Well-known Member

Cienna

Member

Tony in Mass.

Well-known Member

Mike (WA)

Well-known Member

Fred Martin

Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

Similar threads