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How would you do it ?

B

Billy NY

Well-known Member
Ok, simple one, but the darned thing (bearing) won't come off the shaft, so I am thinking cutting torch or puller, impact/using a hammer and wood block seems to get nowhere, though it is soaked in penetrating oil. I seemed to recall though that the collar with the allenhead set screw was letting the shaft move, offsetting the drive, shear flange type sprocket, it would rub against the carriage bolts that hold the flange type bearing retainer, you could tell by how much of the shaft was protruding, funny now I want to replace that sprocket and now it won't budge LOL Well could be a burr in there too. It's a Loftness 661 DTS 66" 3 pt snow blower.


Loftness661DTS003.jpg


Loftness661DTS002.jpg


Loftness661DTS001-1.jpg
 
Isn't it an excentric locking collar? One that you have to hit with a punch to turn about a quarter turn to "unlock it" from the bearing?
 
Billy, I might sound crude, but I have taken a large hammer and smashed bearings and races off of shafts. You do have to support the bearing and race on something solid like a small anvil or piece of RR track. Always wear safety glasses.
I think a good puller would work in your case.
 
Can only speak for myself, I would take and loosen the collar behind the bearing, move it back towards the flighting,take some fine sand paper,or emery cloth, clean the shaft in front of the bearing.Put a bearing separator behind the bearing and lube the shaft with oil or light grease,then try to pull the bearing loose with the separator.
If all else fails could get a new bearing,cut thru the outer cage,remove the bearings and retainer sleeve,then carefully cut the inner bearing sleeve,I usually use a cut off tool or a grinder with a cut off wheel.When you get close to the shaft,I take a chisel,hammer and finish cracking thru the sleeve,as to not damage the shaft with a score mark from the cutter wheel.
Also, take a few measurements before hand on where the bearing is from the shaft edge.
Just how I would do it, not saying you are supposed to do it my way.Hope this helps.
Regards,
Victor
 
I"ll just throw this out there. The collar doesn"t look thick enough but there wouldn"t be another set of set screws under the ones you loosened?
 
Not Crude at all.... If he's replacing the bearings, why not??? Then all you got to do is cut off the race, cut off wheel..
 
I believe its round, though the bearing race seems to be rounded, the inner flange retainer will not pass over it. The collar has 2 allen set screws, which did seem to be tough to set, hard to torque these down, though I believe they are pointed, must be harder than the shaft, just the collar kept moving, on its own or then just bump something with the auger, like a fence rail etc., it would slide over, allowing the shaft-sprocket to move over, have to reset it. Probably a good thing it moved in those instances, though I got it set so it won't move on it's own.
 
Visor and eye protection under that,LOL prior to the anvil and impact method, if there was lack of a grinder and a chisel, need it back together, no doubt about the bigger hammer method at all ! LOL

Think I'll try with a puller, clean, oil it etc. like Lou mentioned too, if no go, then the grinder-chisel. Probably a good idea and see if I can find a number off it 1st too!
 
Hey, don't tell me how to do it.... LOL ! I think it might slide with a puller, thought for sure it did before because I knew when to shut it down, and reset that collar, by looking at the shaft end outside the housing, so I don't think it rusted or fused to the shaft, just now it seems stuck on there.

Yes, remember when you were younger, just get er apart quickly darn it, now we carefully measure whenever possible, look things over, always helps, that and a photo of before !

Given the age of it, would be wise to find the same quality bearing and replace, the small amount of lube in these kinds of sealed bearings, probably is not the greatest by now, or I would think ..... hence... "well as long as you're in there or have 'er apart" now where have I heard that before :)
 
Iv had that prob to with bearings, just smash the bearing, the little balls will go everywere, that use a cutting wheel to open up the race, carefull not to cut into the shaft, take a chisel and open up the race to get it off. Good luck,,,J
 
I take it you never owned an older model Gleaner; as has already been suggested.......hammer/goggles/torch.
 
Actually the bearing is seperate, their design of this blower is kind of simple, not all that much too these, besides the gearbox. Worst case if it does not budget grinder or torch, might be just as well to get the number off it, set the torch hot and blow 'er off close, I'm pretty good with my set up, should be easy enough.
 
Bingo! Take out the set screws and use a punch to rotate the collar some and it will line up with the bearing and pull off.
 
No on the gleaner, but I have seen one pain in the @ss bearing under the operator station of a 6620 JD combine, this one almost burnt, owner never knew there was a lube point in there, I would imagine one needs to be real careful using a torch on a combine.
 
The hammer and anvil method will work on the inner race also, but along with goggles, wear some leather gloves. I did it once withut gloves and ended up with a piece of race in my hand. didn't feel too good!
 
Proper way of doing that is to loosen the set screw and rotate the exentric collar with hammer and punch (might need to try left or right) the locking collar is tighened in the direction of normal shaft rotation.

If it wont budge after the collar is loose.clean the shaft behind the bearing with sand paper and knock the bearing further on the shaft so you can shine up the stub and the bearing should come off wih little trouble.

When you install it back on turn the bearing around so the collar is facing you,bolt the flanges on(bolt heads to the inside),then center the shaft where you want it(Sprockets in line).
The last thing you do is lock the collar in place.
 
Like someone else said the torch is your friend. If no torch is available use a cutting wheel on a grinder. Stan
 
Use the torch and don't worry about damaging the shaft underneath. If you do it fast enough, the shaft won't get hot enough to burn into with the torch, while cutting the bearing off. Done it several times.

And if it does, no biggie. Just clean up the shaft with a file and some emerycloth, and put the new one on. Makes a 5 hour job into a 1/2 hour job really quick.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
Torch on the bearing to expand it off of the shaft. Don't get the shaft or the heat will cause it to expand with the bearing and you will be right where you started, except with a hot bearing with the same tight fit on the now same hot shaft. Just get the bearing on an angle so as to keep the heat on the shaft to a minimum as compared to what the bearing will be getting, and it will expand off the shaft so you can tap it off. Sure looks like a Timkin with roller bearings instead of ball bearings. Oughta come apart easily enough...heat it.

Good luck.

Mark
 
Its a locking collar like others have said. Take out the set screws and turn it one way or the other and the bearing should come off. If you don't believe it go to some place where they sell bearings like that,ask for whatever number is on it,and look at it. The hole in the lock ring is offset a little so as you turn it,it locks the bearing on the shaft.If you are replacing the bearing torch it off if you want to. If the bearing is good,unlock it and if you have the shaft clean with emery tape and no burrs it will probably come off.
 
From my experience cam lock type bearing retainers have only one threaded hole for a set screw. The other is a blank hole for a punch to lock it on the bearing shoulder. This one has two set screws, meaning it isn't a cam lock bearing retainer. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. stan
 
Yep, it's a locking collar. You might have to put a pipe wrench on it to get it to turn, but until you do the bearing won't budge. You might still need the hot wrench, but get the collar loose first.
 
I agree but.......

I haven't seen a locking collar with 2 set screws? Always 1 setscrew and one 1/2 deep hole for the punch to turn it.... Hummmm.

After years and years, I spend about 5 minutes trying to take it off; then get the torch. They cut off real easy with years and years of experience.... ;)

--->Paul
 
Actually, it's NOT a locking collar. The two setscrews give that away.

It is a bearing with an extended inner race with the setscrews in the inner race itself like the bearing shown here in this too-small photo.

<img src = "http://www.nsk.com/products/bearingunit/images/ball_bearing_units_003.jpg">.
 
You might be right,but I have never seen a bearing like that where it wasn't a locking collar. Ive worked on a couple of combines and it seems like the ones with 2 set crews were locking collars too.I might be wrong.However a torch will still get it off,or you have to take the set screws out anyway,try that first and see it if will come off.
 
Hello Billy. I can't wait till you get it off and show us what it is. Have a good one.
 
I will definitely post an update, when I get 'er done ! I really enjoy everyone's thoughts, opinions and the discussion.

No time to work on it today, but will have time tomorrow for sure, and just in time, they say another foot of snow is on the way, this darned winter has been a pain in the @ss LOL !

PS, the photos are deceiving, the bearing and the collar, are 2 separate parts, though I don't recall ever seeing the other types shown and or mentioned, always something to learn here isn't there ?
 
Thanks for posting that photo,not familiar with either of those, more so the locking collar type, interesting to say the least. My photos are deceptive, they are 2 separate parts, collar and bearing, I did get a number off it today, this snowblower is American made and has some age on it, Chinese bearings though ! Had to take the assembly out in the sun and fool with it so I could see the numbers on the side of the race, hopefully a common bearing, I usually have good luck at the napa in town, enough farms around they stock quite a few bearings.
 
Actually... some lock collars do use two set screws. It's hard to tell from the angle of the pictures but that does look to me like a collar lock bearing. If it is you'll find a punch hole somewhere on the collar. Back the screws out. Lock collars are supposed to be locked in the direction of rotation... so you figure out which way the shaft turns, then punch the collar back the other way...
That said... might still not come loose. You can either burn it off or get a separator behind it and try pulling it off that way (if you want to save the bearing).
If it was me... I'd burn it off in less time than it took to read this. Old bearing = DRY bearing... means you'll be doing this sooner or later. Might as well be now.

Rod
 
I've seen a lot of collars with two set screws. Depends on the bearing series...
Generally I'd agree with you but these pics seem to show a rather thick collar with a slightly smaller diameter between the collar and race. An extended race would be full diameter straight out...

Rod
 
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