John Deere 60 Help Needed! (PICS)

Hello everyone! I am in need of some assistance. I am trying to start my 1956 John Deere 60 that I purchased about a month ago. I am not getting any spark to the plugs and I need to figure out why. I changed the spark plugs and wires and sanded the points. Inside the distributer it looks good. The wirings is a real mess as you can see in the pictures. I was thinking about rewiring it.

I am in need of a wiring diagram so I can figure this all out, so if someone could post one that would be great!

Also in the first picture there is a handle that has the words on and off in it. This is located on the left side of the tractor. What does this handle do? I am new to John Deere 60"s.
This tractor was used daily by the previous owner up until about 5 years ago. I finally got some time to do some work on it today. I cleaned out the oil bath air filter and found 5 dead mice in it! That was a very nasty surprise! There was about an inch of dirt at the bottom of the oil. Look at the before and after pictures. Nothing a little work couldn't clean up!

Thanks for reading and for all the help!
From Denton, Nebraska.
Andrew Kean

The handle in the first picture engages/disengages the hydraulic pump. Very handy for cold weather starting. However, once your engine is warmed up, you'll have to shut it off to re-engage the pump.

Looking at that wiring (?) mess I would suggest that you just order a new wire harness (available from Agri-Services and probably elsewhere) and install the new wiring BEFORE ever attempting to start it. The new harness will come with a connection diagram to show where all the wires go. You will need to pull the dash panel (where the gauges are) away from the casting it's mounted to for access to the wiring. Most of the important wiring is behind that panel.

You are not to turn that lever back and forth unless the motor is not running!

This is another good source for wiring harness.John Brillman company is a first class act .
The Brillman company

Appears to have good potential.
Leave the hydraulic pump and the pto front shifter off unless using the hydraulics or pto. Running then just wastes fuel and wears bearings.
If parked idling, put the trans in neutral and engage the clutch. Otherwise the "pilot" bearing will get hot.
Most of the basics are covered in the operator's manual from 1-800-522-7448.
Don't trust the chassis connection from battery to battery box. Get a HD cable and run the "ground/return to the main crankcase/trans housing.
A whole new wiring harness is the only solution to what some hack has done to the electricals.

I have to agree that that wiring on the tractor is going to need to be replaced.
But at this stage in the game now is not the time. I wouldn't just start throwing money at something you really don't know the overall condition of. I'd unhook it ! Then just use my test leads I have made up with clips on the ends to get power from the battery to the coil. The battery ground cable should be hooked to the + post and then the dist. wire from the points should go to the + side of the coil. Then all you need is to hook a wire from the - battery post to the - side of the coil and then test for spark. All you have to do for a spark test is to get the dist. cam rotated to just before the points open,then just rotate the rotor enough by hand to open the points. When the power is hooked up you should get spark when the points open.

I forgot to mention that this is ONLY TEMPORARY just to see if it will run.
12 volt battery too which is what the model 60 system is made for.

If you want to run it very long hook a resistor in the before the coil.

I agree with Mike M. Although i know very little about Deere's, that's my trick to try to get nearly anything going.

When in doubt, hot wire from battery directly to coil "hot side".. I'd usually try to find TDC of #1, and check static timing at this point. Can also loosen distributor (on the tractors I'm more familiar with) and give it a twist to check for spark and set the timing.. Or, use something to "break" the point contact.

If the points don't "spark" when opened, you found your problem.

You did make sure you were getting power to the coil, and through the coil, right? I'm certain you checked that, but if I don't ask I don't know.

Good luck, and keep us posted.

Brad

Not to bust anyone's chops, but I don't believe I said anything about engaging or disengaging while the engine is running!

dont forget but you gotta turn the light switch knob one click to get power to everything.