Flipping and trailer and meaning to...

OliverGuy

Well-known Member
This may look odd, but this is my favorite trailer so I'm trying to take care of it. Salt is eating the bottom up after 10 yrs. We use this one every day so I'm trying to make it go another 10yrs. Still use 2 trailers sporadically that Dad bought in the late seventies, luckily they made things out of good thick steel back then. I flipped this with the backhoe, going to do some grinding and cleaning and then paint again. Hope to not have to do again, it was heavy. I heard that I'm the only moron to do a rotiserre restoration on a trailer.
imperialontop.jpg
 
I will suggest abundant use of phosphoric acid to remove/neutalize rust residues. especially in areas that you can't get into with the grinder.
 
I would have it sandblasted then spray it with an acid primer or an epoxy primer with hardener.
Then top coat it. Hal
 
You're not alone. Ive rotated a couple of mine in similar fashion. Lots easier to work on that way. Wish I could do it to my truck!
Tim
 
Nothing wrong with that.

My trailer looks similar, only I built it myself.

Started out with it upside down. Welded the frame from the bottom, welded in the spring mounts, mounted the axles, etc. Then turned it right side up and finished it.
 
There is a guy not far from me who suspends trailers from a crane so that he can sandblast and paint them. Makes sense to me to take care of the bottom side, especially where they salt roads.
 
The headline reads . Trailer flips , load of pallets closes highway . Homeland security checks for dirty bomb . oops thats a blower lol
 
How about POR15? I know it's expensive but everyone I know who's used it says the stuff is permanent.
 
I have a friend that rolled his old Buick into a soft snow-bank to do some work on the bottom of it. No damage to the car. I don't know how he hooked on to roll it without damage.
 
I was told by a reputable trailer manufacturer that it's best to leave the steel bare underneath.the natural oxide will protect it best in the long run.
 
That's exactly what I did to my single axle utility trailer when I needed to replace the axles/springs a few years ago.

Looked a bit odd - but it worked great!
 
With all due respect, what the mfr told you is BUNK!

Unless the underside steel is Cor-Ten (A588 or A606) weathering steel, it will corrode much FASTER if left unpainted. And especially so if the trailer is used in areas where deicing salt is employed.

Further, even if a trailer IS fab'd from Cor-Ten, unless special welding materials/processes are employed the welds will still corrode. The welds will then fail even though the parent steel remains in good shape.
 
I did that to mine.
Painted 2 coats of brush on Rustoleum rusty metal primer on it and then a rustoleum color coat.
Been 5 years and still looks better on the underside than the topside.
 
I'd apply POR-15. Just get the loose rust off, paint it on, and you're done. Its used extensively in auto restoration, and those guys know their stuff. It chemically reacts with the rust, and forms a coating that's tough and impermeable.
 
IIMA......what's the device in the center about halfway between the tongue and the front axle?
 
You're right, it is. Been a very handy trailer with that split deck. Good one I have now has a rear and side heavy duty fold down ramps and 7k axles. Put a skid loader in the middle and a mini skid steer in the nose. They're not built as good as the one pictured though. It was made by Imperial.
 
I laid an old 79 ford truck on its side to do some trans. and exhaust work. Tall fescue didn't make a single dent. Yes I drained the oil first and remembered to put it back!
 

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