No tilling beans into corn

Dave from MN · Mar 1, 2011

ANy advice on what to do with the markers? Is there a "better" marker disk to go to from stock? What can I do to get enough weight on the end of the marker arm to make sure I get enough penetration and turned dirt? Lighter/fast warming soil. Am I gonna hurt my yeild by not tilling?

buickanddeere · Mar 1, 2011

Was the corn combined or whole plant harvested with a forage harvestor?

Dave from MN · Mar 1, 2011

Combined, with a IH 1063? head. Stalkes seem to be about 10-14"tall, maybe a bit more.

IaGary · Mar 1, 2011

Hurt yield? That all depends on the year. If it is going to be a wet cool spring, tilling might be better. If it is a warm dry year, no till may be better. If you have a lot of disease pressure tilling may be better.

I am not a big fan of no till corn but beans seems to make not much difference whether it's tilled or not.
I do no till plant beans but not corn.

As far as the markers, what do you have for a planter. Most planters or drills than can no till have markers good enough to use the way they are.

Gary

sdc eastern ia. · Mar 1, 2011

I'm not a fan of no till beans but around here most folks use a piece of pvc pipe with a rubber hose pointing down as a guide. Get it close to your last pass and you don't keep turning around all the time. Easier on the neck.

Dave from MN · Mar 1, 2011

Later model JD 7000, 8R 30" with the folding arms

John Eatwell · Mar 1, 2011

I have no-tilled both corn and beans for 20 years. I have used a drill and planter for beans. The planter seems to work best. I have a kinze no-till with 15 inch rows. You need to have no-till coulters and good down pressure springs. With a drill you plant and go away for 2 weeks and don't worry, they will come up. I think my yields are better or as good as neighbors. Heavy bottom ground I work a litte to help warm the soil and dry it out. I also no-till corn and haven't had any problems with disease or weed pressure. Saves alot on fuel and time. Don't see big ditches wash into the side hills like some neighbors.

IaGary · Mar 1, 2011

Dave just give that disc a little more angle on the 7000 planter and you should be able to follow it.

I would not put a larger disc on it. It may pull to hard for the strength of the arm with a larger disc.

Now if your disc is wore down to much you may want to replace them.

Gary

MNGreybeard · Mar 1, 2011

I used to plant soybeans in cornstalk stubble after just discing. The markers weren't much good.A GPS guidence system solved the problem,plus you can use it for a lot of other things

Larry806 · Mar 1, 2011

The markers on a 8 row narrow 7000 are the poorest to use for notil .
I have a 8 X 30 made in to 15 - 15 inch row . I don't bother trying to use the markers ( my son does ) when running corn stalks . I just go by the old corn rows .

old fashioned farmer · Mar 1, 2011

Howdy,

Do you have a Kinze dealer nearby? If so, you might take one of your markers up there and check to see if the notched marker blades that kinze has would work (bolt holes match, etc.) with your 7000. When I worked for a kinze dealer all of our guys switched over to those blades. Most guys here in S. Ohio no-till everything and those blades worked well for them. Not sure if the pull of that blade would put too much stress on your marker arms though. God bless.

JDseller · Mar 1, 2011

Dave the notched blades help. I would also hung a short chain under the tongue of the planter. Those JD 7000 drive transmission is low behind the tongue. When you go against the way the corn was combined you can get a stalk to go up into the transmission and knock the drive chains off. When this happens they can wrap the drive clutch and strip the internal gears. You then have to pull the whole cross shaft. How do I know this???? New planter 1984. I was no tilling everything. Second day out had the clutch chain get speared. Took a long day right in prime corn planting time to fix it. Did not know what caused it. Happened again two hundred acres later. Stalks where small the years before because of drought. The corn heads did not shred them down as good as normal. Ten dollars of chain will save a bunch of headaches.

I used a chain about three feet long. I just put in longer bolts in the bottom tongue mounting bolts. That way it hung down in a loop under the tongue. That loop would break and stalks that would spear the clutch.

OliverGuy · Mar 1, 2011

I second that, just turn the disc in some. Sometimes with the conditions and time of day it"s still hard to see that mark though. And it"s getting harder with so much corn residue on top. Planting 15"s or 30"s through 30" corn rows or what? This used to be my no till bean setup, man I"m glad this planter is gone.

Bob Bancroft · Mar 1, 2011

No-tilling beans seems to work well here (NY) so much so that I would say it's the predominant practice. Mostly with JD drills, right into corn stalks. No-till corn does NOT work here. Nobody even tries it anymore.

Anonymous-0 · Mar 1, 2011

Get a scalloped/notched marker disk and this might be enough improvement. I have a IH 620 drill with markers and also added a weight with a hole which could be slid up-and-down to give the necessary down pressure. Drilled/tapped a bolt hole in the weight so a jam bolt could be used to fix it in the desired position. No-till beans are not that difficult, much easier than no-till corn. Will likely need to incorporate a burn-down spray before or immediately after planting which replaces the usual tillage. If the field is fairly clean, might be able to avoid a burn-down pass.

Anonymous-0 · Mar 1, 2011

The saying around here goes something like this

No till, no yield.

Anonymous-0 · Mar 1, 2011

Been no tilling into stalks for years. Learned to lock the markers up and just plant between the rows. Markers always seemed to drag and leave piles of trash. JD 7200 conservation with Unverferth zone till hitch, Yetter row cleaners and Schlagel closing wheels.

Eric in IL · Mar 1, 2011

I would cast my vote for the GPS also. You should be able to buy a used lightbar for 500-800 bucks.

If you want to plant diagonal to the old corn rows- no problem.

If it gets dark on you and the headlights on the tractor don't work- no problem.

If you need to plant curved rows to match a terrace- no problem.

Put it on your 4-wheeler and use it to measure acreage.

Lots of uses, moves to any vehicle with 12 volt system.

I don't think you would ever regret the purchase. I sure haven't so far.

CBL95 · Mar 1, 2011

shoup has notched blades that do AMAZING in no-till and they also have weights that bolt on to the disc and usually two per side is good

super99 · Mar 1, 2011

I am looking for a GOOD used light bar, where do you find them?? I have been looking in the Illinois Agri News, Saw 2 advertised, called and already sold. Chris

RandyB(MI) · Mar 1, 2011

Don't EVEN try to tell us you actually work that Oliver!!!

OliverGuy · Mar 1, 2011

Did for 3 years and then bought a case 2590 to use. Now the "big ollie" does a little chiseling, mostly for fun, but mostly a trailer queen! You're right! Love that 3208 with a straight pipe.

Eric in IL · Mar 1, 2011

Chris,

I bought mine from ebay about three years ago. Have you tried your local tractor dealerships? I would guess they take trades on lightbars.

jddriver · Mar 1, 2011

sounds like you are stuck in the 40s

730 virgil · Mar 1, 2011

my neighbor that no-tills has starting using a salford machine it has disk blades mounted like plow coulters
he started using this to help level fields gets better soil contact for spray and fertilzer.
he hits all the corn stalks in fall then everything in spring. his crops look better color is darker green seem to come up faster than before starting with salford machine

billonthefarm · Mar 1, 2011

Nope, he's right. No till has been steadily disappearing here. I gave up last year. We just couldnt make the beans yield with the worked ground.
bill

No tilling beans into corn

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