Kia Sportage 4WD lock - anybody know about it?

I went to use our 98 Kia Sportage today and no-good. Stuck in 2WD. Couldn't even get out our driveway. Good thing, because I'd certainly never get back in. Over 200K and first time there's even been a problem. 4WD light comes on, front wheels no move. It worked fine when I last parked it and I left it in 4WD. But I see now, it engages by engine vacuum and disengages whenever vacuum is gone.

So, now I'm ticked off at Korea.

I have the full factory tech manual but it does not show me anything about the vacuum operated locking hubs. No picture, no nothing. Just states "if vacuum is present and hub no work - American fool must buy new hubs. " Note, I'm paraphrasing a little. There is a vacuum solenoid that sends vacuum to the hubs when turned on.

I did a quick search on-line and foundd nothing but people converting to Warn manual hubs. I find nothing on anybody actually taking apart and maybe fixing.

My question is - had anybody on these forums ever seen the inside of one of these hubs? If not, guess I'm going to find out the old-fashioned way.

HA!!!!!! My turn to tell you something. Your case is supposed to be a simple, couple buck kit from autozone (or??). So these folks here

http://www.kia-forums.com/1g-1994-2002-sportage/

say.

Set of the warn manual hubs are supposed to take a few minutes to swap out on the vacuum model also.

My 97 has/had the non vacuum auto hubs and I swapped them out with manual. Took a little longer but I know exactly when my 4wd will work or not. Not as convenient, but less headache.

Got mine thru Amazon.com reasonable

http://www.amazon.com/WARN-60247-Standard-Manual-Hub/dp/B000CQBM5Y

Dave

Yes, I saw the same Warn hubs at Amazon with "free shipping." Thing is, I don't want them unless as a last resort. Warn also makes much more pricey auto-hubs.

We need 4WD every day to get up and down our road. Just about no exceptions. With manual hubs, my wife (or me) will be constantly getting in an out to lock and unlock. When she goes grocery shopping it's a 50 mile trip and I don't want the hubs locked all that time going 75 MPH down the Interstate.

This year, I'm actually starting to run low on beater 4WDs. The frame broke in half last week in my 92 Subaru 4WD wagon. Now the Kia lost 4WD. That leaves us with a ratty 95 Impreza AWD, 92 Dodge W3250 diesel, or our "new" 2002 Suburu Impeza. The latter is "rust free" and I don't want to drive it except as a last resort. At least not until some of the road salt is gone.

Look for a Geo Tracker, 5 spd, 16valve 1600 cc engine in the 4 door wagon. Pretty big inside, 30 mpg, built on truck frame, and a real 4wd with transfer case. I run one with 215-75-15 studded off road tires and it goes anywhere. Extra tires and wheels go on 15 April.

Gordo

There's pretty much a never ending supply of older Subaru's around here- I sort of watch for them, because my daughter wants another whenever her latest heap gives out. I think its nostalgia with her- engine reminds her of driving the combine in her youth. She also likes the funkyness of storing the spare tire on top of the engine.

If you want to come get one, I can have one waiting by the time you get here.

Only takes a second to lock/unlock but I don't like it either (have to do it several times a day when muddy or icy while checking the horses. If you think it would do you any good, I could send you the non vacuum auto hubs I took off mine. One of the internal plastic parts was cracked and causing my problem but it could be just a good cleaning and JB weld fix. Think I just saw them yesterday. Mine is a 97.

Dave

I have a Daewoo Korando with similar hubs, so on the assumption that one Korean hub is like another, my bet is just a split vacuum tube.
So check all tubes from the hubs back to the solenoid valve (pay attention to any tee joints) & make sure all the rubbers are sound. If all OK, then
Next question: do you have vacuum at the output from the solenoid valve?
If not then check out the valve operation - try a light tap if its stuck etc. & see if the solenoid bit of it works or not. Is it getting power? There's loads of those type of vacuum solenoids on old Mercedes engines, so you should be able to get them from a breaker easily.
Pull off the tubes at each hub & check if you have vacuum at each.
Check the metal tubes where the rubber pipes attach to each hub. Check for corrosion, breaks & whether they are blocked or not.
If all is OK, but still no hub engagement, then the hubs are easy to dismantle (Google for Daewoo or Ssangyong Musso & Korando stuff). Basically the oil seal at the driveshaft side also has to seal the vacuum. If wheel bearings are sloppy, then the vac seal may be lost, so check & adjust if necessary. The outer side is sealed by a diaphragm arrangement & an O ring on the outer hub. You'll see all this as soon as you take the 6 bolts out. There is a nylon top hat type cap attached to the diaphragm that actuates the hub locking, (it's quite easy to work it out when you see it) Check that moves freely (may be a build up of old grease is stopping it) Don't use too much grease when reassembling or you may block the tube when the vacuum sucks.
It's an easy job to do & cheap to fix too - probably just need some new rubber pipe. If the metal pipes in the hub are broken, then it's a bit more involved - you'll need to drill & tap the hub & screw in some brake pipe or similar to receive the rubber tubing.
I can send you a PDF +pics of the =vacuum system if you need? (I can't see how to post a PDF to the forum)

Don't know if you seen these posts on Kia's 4x4 not working? It might help, seems as to what I've been reading the seal leaks and doesn't allow vacuum to reach the right Lbs to engage the lock hubs.Never had to deal with this type of locking hub, always had the manual type,but can see why some don't like it. I won't take bets on that you won't find a fix LOL.Hope this helps a little.
LOU & VICTOR

http://www.kia-forums.com/1g-1994-2002-sportage/65286-4x4-not-working-hubs-not-locking.html

http://www.kia-forums.com/1g-1994-2002-sportage/65116-4wheel-drive-will-not-engage.html

I've got four of them. All 2 doors though. Great little 4WDs but also death-traps on ice and snow.
I've got two 92s with TBI and 8 valve engines and two 95s with sequential injection and 16 valve engines. Great 4WDs for mud and the woods in the summer.

I always figured the 4 doors should be much better in bad weather (but never had one). The 2 doors are too light and spin like tops.

Also the frames are made out of thin sheet-metal and rust something awful if driven a lot on salt. I've scrapped out many with broken frames.

vacuum hose hid in the upper a arm in the front they get old and fail most just brake off from one end or the other. replaced a lot of them about 9 in long hose also the vacuum switch on the fire wall will stick and the seal in the hubs go dry and crack. changed them all at times

Just found this site,Its in Spanish,I think?, but shows pictures of the dis-assembly.

http://www.clubmusso.com.ar/kb.php?mode=article&k=3

You are right about Sidekick/Trackers. You need sprint car driver reflexes to drive a 2dr on ice or slick snow pack. Take a drive in a 4dr though, they have enough longer wheelbase to feel completely different on slick dangerous surfaces.
After my wife spun her 2dr, we bought a 4dr and she loves it.

Most of their (Geo/Suzuki) 4 cylinders
leak enough oil from the o-ring seal on the distributor base down over the transmission to protect most of the frame and body behind the transmission. Fortunately, if you do want to dry
up the oil leak, it only costs about $3.00 apiece
for better o-rings.

What kind of fuel economy do you get out of the KIA's?

If you think that 4dr tracker drives nice then you should drive a Rav4 or better yet a CRV !
Those Trackers with their steering gear box and solid rear axle the wind blows them around bad and washboard roads toss them all over. I had one and drove my sisters Crv down the same road and it was like night and day different. Crv get better gas mileage too ! Even better then the smaller Rav4. Rack and pinion steering and 4 wheel independent suspension sure makes for a stable ride.

I know some people that a bought brand new early Sportage limited Edition. The transfer case locked up completely doing 70km/h. Lucky he was driving and managed to get it stopped in the grass median. It was less than a year old and dealer tried to say it was his fault because the transfer case had no oil in it. It was a new dealer at the time. After much fighting, they got the dealer to take it in trade because no other dealer wanted it. The early Sportages had a lot of problems and were discontinued and I think it was a couple years before they brought the improved version out. These same people ended up getting the newer model Sportage and haven't had any problems with it. Dave

I have a 1997 Ford F150 and it has the switch on the dash to engage the 4 wheel drive and one time it would not go into 4 wheel drive and all that was wrong was that the vacuum valve was not pushing out far enought to engage the 4 wheel drive. Replaced the vacuum valve and all was well. The way we found it we put it up on the hoist and when we engaged the 4 wheel drive we pushed the rod a little farther and it went into 4 wheel drive. Bob

Our Kia Sportage four-doors both have 5 speed manual trans (Getrag) and both get a best around 25 MPG. We have a 98 and a 99. They are geared way too high. With sonme taller gearing I suspect they could do much better. In 5th OD the engine revs 3100 RPM. Axle ratios are 4.78 to 1.

I flat-towed on 1000 miles last year with my Ford F250 - so I could leave the Ford up in northern Michigan. Then we drove the Kia home. That was near 1000 miles of mostly flat highway driving at mostly 75 MPH. Got 25.3 MPG for the trip.

Both of ours are 5 speed manual trans. 98 and 99. Both were recalled by the Kia dealer long before we owned them - and a shaft and gear inside the German Getrag transnmission was changed. We've never had a bit of mechanical trouble with either of them - until now with the front-axle lock problem. Rock solid, and if anything over-built.

I've got over 20 Subarus up in my field. The true 4WDs are disappearing. Subaru haan't made them since 93 or 94. And, they are "old body style" and metal on them rusts something awful. Loyale series (or a few Justys). Even though they are 4WD and NOT AWD, only the ones with manual trans actually have 4WD at all throttle positions.

My sister in law drives a 2001 Sportage. With over 200K miles on it I don't think I'll open my mouth to tell her what a POS it is.

With gas headed to $5.00 a gallon I'll be giving Kia a seconf look for a work car.

There must be some good reasons why the early models were discontinued. Maybe they required lots of warranty work to fix problems? Like I said in my first post, this was a brand new dealer that didn't seem to know anything about customer service. Maybe they never gave it a proper pre delivery inspection that would have included checking the oil in the transfer case. The guy that bought it is a motorcycle mechanic and has also done a lot of work on vehicles. I agreed with his complaint. On a new vehicle less than a year old, why would the owner have any reason to have to check the transfer case oil level. That's the dealers job. There were no leaks or anything on the ground. Initially the dealer wasn't going to fix it on warranty. I think, but not sure, the dealer did get a new service manager that had some clue what he was doing. Dave