ID this part and this tool ??

I've got two items I'd like to ID.

Item #1 is from a GM transmission I'm trying to rebuild. A 4L60 out of a 1991 diesel 4WD Suburban. As far as I know, trans was working fine. I'm rebuilding and upgrading to stick into a small motorhome I have.

When I got the trans all apart. I found this metal part all the inside the trans, in back. I haven't a clue was it is, or what is was. Looks like it's bent and broken and see nowhere that it might of come from. This 4L60 is basically a renames 700R4. I'm not going to rest easy until I find out where it came from. Maybe something dropped in there during a former rebuild?

Trans part . .

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Second item is a tool. I've got a big box of old tools that my dead uncle had. He was an engineer for Bendix Corp, but have no idea if he used these tools to got them passed down to him.
Here's one item that I'm wondering about . . .

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Can't help on the first one. The second one is a tachometer, or as they called it: revolution counter.
You had to watch the clock and note how long it took to reach 100 revolutions, then calculate the RPM.
Sold for $1.50 in 1880!
From C.H. Wendel's "Antique Tools And Machinery".

Thanks for the info. I figured it must have counted something. $1.50 was a good chunk of change in 1880.

Hi JD,

The first picture is of the anti-clunk spring. Absolutely essential for the longitivity of the case.

Allan

no is not broken. the first one goes in the trans. it is installed aginst the case. you install it after the low clutch plates and befor the one way roller clutch. it keeps the roller clutch for moving and damaging the housing. there is a indention in the case lower left side as you look into the case. i dont know what the 2nd one is. hope this helps david

The first item is an "anti rattle clip" that keeps the fixed plate of the low and reverse clutch/rear sprag from rattling around. It "hides" in a recess next to the low and reverse clutch plates.

You must be a "400" guy, since this was first used WAY back in the THM-350 era!



<img src = "http://www.route66wingsandwheels.com/uploads/image10.jpeg">

Yep,

First hit the bricks in 1968. :>)

Allan

Thanks for all the replies (tool and clip). About that clip . . . that's really good to know. I've never had a 4L60 apart before and that clip isn't mentioned in the new book I just bought. Or if it is, I missed it. Book is . . GM Overdive Transmissions - Builders and Swappers Guide by Cluff Ruggles.

Since many of you obviously know more then I do on this subject . . . about the rear planetary. How in heck does a person know what to use in an upgrade.

This trans has an OEM four-pinion rear planetary. It's worn out, along with the sun-gear in the middle. Main problem is all four gears are wobbly and loose. Ready to fail.

OK, fine. I know GM upgraded it to a five-gear setup as used in the 4L65E. But, this so-called higher-torque part scares me in a few ways.

#1, it uses powdered metal gears which I can't believe are as strong as heat-treaded steel.

#2 there are tons of aftermarket clones out there from Taiwan and China. Quality unknown.

As least my four-gear unit is all steel. I can just rebuild it.

Am I the only one that gets nervous with the idea of powdered-metal gears in a high-stress area? I know GM says it's stronger, but I also know it's a heck of lot cheaper to build. This has me suspecting that they had to use 5 "powder" gears to make it as strong as the older unit with four steel gears.

I've read many articles ad-nauseum, and still don't know what to believe.

Sonax sells a steel gear rebuild kit. I'm tempted to find a factory Delco 5 gear setup - used - and replace those gears with steel ones from Sonax.

I'm not trying to cut cost here. I just don't trust everything that GM says and does. Nor do I trust all aftermarket parts suppliers. I'd like to do this upgrad once and have it last a while. 4L60 in a turbo-diesel rig that weighs over 7000 lbs. needs all the help it can get.

Up to you what "metal" ya are gonna use.

Only caution I would offer is to NOT mix and match gears in that planetary. That's what makes 'em set up that awful "whine".

Ya hear that a lot from units coming out of the low-end shops where they've gathered their hard parts from the "back room". :>)

Allan

JD;

I worked at Rockwell International. We started using powder formed gears about 1983. Still are used today. Tests proved a 60 percent greater strength than cut gears. It illiminated the job I was working at the time. Yes, much cheaper to make and more prcise.

Gene

My dad had one, used it to set the speed of the threshing machine for different grains when I was a little kid. You held it against the main shaft and looked at your pocket watch and had a fellow on the gas tractor or steam engine and set the speed. I still have it.

Mike in Mn. has the right answer

why not bolt in a 4L80,better tranny IMO

gm never put a 4l60 behind a diesel. can not handle the torque. 4l60 ok for 5.7L or 6.0L. 8.1L and diesel have 4l80 or allison. if you are going to install the 5 gear plantery their are other parts that also need to be changed. it has to do with the lube circuits in hard parts. david

Sure they did. I have two 1991 diesel Suburbans sitting here. Both with factory 4L60s. They came from the local school so I know they are original. Besides, it's also listed on the RPO stickers as MD8.

I have the Chevrolet factory service manuals sitting here in front of me.

"1991 Unit Repair Manual Light Duty Truck # ST 333-91." Printed June 1990, General Motors Corporation,Warren, MI. Page 4l60-1 shows "RPO MD8" as "4L60" trans.

"1991 Chevrolet Trucks R/V/P/Models Service Manual", # ST 330-91, General Motors, June, 1990.
Page 0A-8. 6.2 diesel with 4L60 Hyra-matic ID.
Describes how to decode the "1LFM157A" on the side of the trans-case. Decodes to . . 1 for 1991, LF for model LF, M for 4L60, 157 for built on the 157th day of the year, and A for first shift of workers built it.

I just stripped one and took the drivetrain out.
Note the "MD8."

RPO Codes sheet: AS3 AT5 AXP A52 BY1 B3J CMD C6A D45 FLT F51 GQ1 GU6 JD5 K60 LH6 MD8 MXO NA5 R6D TFD TGK UL5 VQ1 VXS V73 XHA X88 YA1 YD3 YD5 YD6 YHA YK6 ZHA ZW9 O1U ISA 60I

Trans I pulled from the 1991 diesel Suburban. Stamped 1LFM157A

Why would I want to spend the money, do all the conversion work, and then have to find a eletronic controller? An awful lot of money and work for little gain as I see it. I already have the 4L60 and it requires no mods to install. From all I've read and heard, the 4L60s work very well when upgraded properly.

I've been trying research it, and just about all the test data I've read states the contrary. The best powdered-metal gears are rated at 25% less overall strength then the best heat-treated steel gears. The surface-hardness is sometimes equal though. And note, I cited tests on the best of both types. I have NO data on what GM uses in their steel or their powdered metal gears. From what I've read, the powered-metal gears save machining time and waste and tend to be more perfectly formed then machined gears. I've yet though to find anything that shows them as stronger, or even equal.

Note I'm not disputing what you say. I'm fully admiting I don't know and am trying to research.

Obvisously, I have no way of determining any of this myself. So, I've got to believe what I read.

This just proves why we do not to get rid of OT post on this board. We all learned something and very intresting. When it get dow to something JD does not know things are realy serious but old Allan came thru.. This is my after supper reading every night ,, does not have to be ALL tractors.. Jerry

the tool has been replaced in modern times by the Starett Speed Indicator. We used it for measuring the rpm's of headsaw on sawmills, speed of edger saws, etc.

Mechanical tachometer. I have two, not as old as yours, but also Starrett. Dad"s was used on setting WC throttle speed when using the 1949 AC Model 60 combine. Got the second one recently in an auction box.