Designing a work shop

My dad is thinking about building a pole barn to use as a personal tractor/automotive repair shop with storage for a few vehicles and tractors. I am looking for any insight into designing a shop. Do you have any good ideas/tips/pointers for someone who has never done this before. My dad will probably have a local construction company do the main framing/roughing in and then we will finish it. Has anyone else designed there own shops before? Did you do it on paper or on the computer? Any info is appreciated and I would also enjoy seeing some pictures of your shops. Thanks
 
Think about the expected usage; make sure it's tall enough for your tallest machine (combine, cottonpicker, etc.; is your planter/combine header 13 ft, 24 ft, 32 ft? Width will probably determine whether you use roll-up or sliding doors. Have put up a bunch of buildings and the plans were mostly in my head. Built my own trusses/sawed my own poles, but it may be cheaper to buy them, if you don't have a cheap source of lumber. Lots more things to think about............
 
I like the idea of having a work stall and stoarage section. This way you can heat just one area, you can also paint without fear of overspray.
I'm not a big fan of floor drains in the middle, It seems like the creeper always rolls into them and gets stuck.
You don't realize how convienent hard plumbing your air lines in is until you do it.
Painting your interior walls white is like putting up double the lighting.
Allow enough space between garage doors that the car doors can fully open and not hit the next vehicle.
If the lot permits, A garage door on each end of the workstall is nice, you can pull projects in from either end.


Grizzly has a program that lets you set up your shop with equipment. It may give you an idea of what you want.
Shop Planner
 
I AM NOT A FAN OF FLOOR DRAINS THEY NEVER DRAIN TO THEM ALWAYS A LOW SPOT SOMEWHERE ELSE ON MY SHOP FLOOR WE SLANTED IT TOWARD THE DOORS 1" PER 10' WORKS GREAT ALL WATER GOES OUT THE DOOR AND YOU DON'T NOTICE THE SLOPE WHEN WORKING JUST MY THOUGHTS IT IS YOUR SHOP DO WHAT YOU WANT
 
Whatever size you think you need double or triple it.
Mark off an area where you think you want the building, then park everything you will want stored,within the lines,remembering that you will have to manuever through a door to get the stuff inside. Then allow enough room for your shop area,once again remembering work benches, toolboxes,welders,and compressors take up alot of space.
I originally figured a 40x50 was big enough,but built a 50x100 and it's too small.
 
redFarmallboy: count the number of "radiator caps" you want under roof and build at least two more parking bays than you have "radiator caps"...this will put off for a year or so you having to expand your facilities to accomadate your newly acquired tractors. Width of parking bays should be no less than 12ft. My enclosed shop is 28ft. wide and 24 ft. deep with 4 12ft. X 24ft. parking bays under the open front shed...Farmall A, 4000 Ford, 4610 Ford, 15hp Garden tractor, F350 Flat bed dump...plus 3 or 4 pieces of equipment that must be shedded and I'm outta room already!! I do wish my enclosed shop was wider/deeper...???

Have fun putting together your "plan" and then "doing" it!!

Rick
 
Did on paper and on computer, computer won't let you cheat your estimates of sizes, paper is faster.

Double the size you are thinking about. Mine was full before it is even finished.

If I did it again, I would have a heated core shop, with unheated sheds off 2 sides. I have too much junk that doesn't need heated storage taking up space inside the prime real estate.

I like my flat floor, it is ideal for metal working/fab. I would slope one vehicle bay to the door for winter work if I did it again. In this sloped bay I'd bring the concrete up the wall 18" and use water proof liner so I could wash vehicles off before working on them.

I would pour an apron, since inevitably, your shop will be full or a big piece of equipment will need worked on in front of your doors.

Build a loft to store stuff up out of your way that you don't use all the time.

If you paint, build a wall between bays so you can keep a paint bay clean.
 
It depends a lot on where you are, what all you plan to do in there, and how much money you plan to spend.

To respond to the floor drain comment, I love having a floor drain that is centrally located, with the floor slightly sloped toward the drain. Where I live, it gets really cold sometimes, and if you plan for the water to drain out under the door, you will end up with an overhead door that is frozen down at times, or which has a ripped off lower seal. My drain has a sump that has a grate over it, making it possible to clean out the mud and gravel that settles out and collects in the sump rather than plugging the drain pipe.

The larger the building, the better, for storage of all sorts of things. However, it is expensive to heat a huge area and many things don't really need to be heated all the time. So ideally it would be great to have a portion of the building that is enclosed and insulated to heat what you are actually working on. That area also could be air conditioned in the hot part of the year.

If you build a pole building, absolutely do not miss the opportunity to insulate and vapor barrier the underside of the metal roof. It is easiest and cheapest to do it as you are building it. If you do not put in this very important feature, you will get condensation on the inside of the metal, at least sometimes, and it will "rain" inside. It is also nice to have things set up for ventilation. I like some openable windows, also for natural light and emergency exits.

It is much easier to put in a concrete floor before you fill the building with stuff!! Having a concrete floor everywhere in the building is nice, but expensive. Well drained gravel works OK in areas that are just used for machinery storage (at least in my area).

I have no experience with having in-the-floor radiant heating, but lots of people have written how much they like it. I would think that in my area, a couple of inches of insulation would be needed under the concrete for it to be halfway efficient. Warm feet do feel nice, though!

There are lots of other ways to heat all or part of a building. Many local shops around here are heated with wood stoves. Chimney location is something to consider if you plan a wood stove. I have seen chimneys located on the outsides of buildings, but I bet they have lots more trouble with creasote buildup than if they were located inside. If you have snow that might slide off the metal roof, you sure don't want your chimney in the path of sliding snow.

I would suggest putting in a large electrical panel to begin with. Even if you only start with using a few circuits, you will probably end up using more. A large panel doesn't cost that much more than much smaller panels.

I have found that it is much better to have a separate room for wood working. Mechanics and wood working make different messes that are not as compatible as they might be.

Whatever you do will end up costing more than you planned, and later you will decide you wish you had done things different, at least in places. In my experience, no building project is ever truly totally done--always something else to do or try.

I hope my random thoughts help you. Good luck!
 
One building for storage and one for a shop, Do not combine the both as you will never have room to work on stuff.
 
One thing for sure; seal the roofing sheets so they are BAT proof...

make two lists:

Want.

Don't Want.(just as important)

paper is cheap, and don't be shy to beg, borrow or steal ideas to add to the lists..


Suggestions: Don't use the heated shop area for 'junk' storage.... make provisions that make it easy to keep the shop area clear of junk. A scrap iron barrel or hopper that has easy access through a walk-in door.. Same for waste oil, if you don't burn it in a heater.. Provision for a garbage dumpster helps.. If someone suggests to store "things" in a corner, just inform them that your shop don't have any corners (grin)

Don't build a shop area that you cannot afford to heat to comfort.. A smaller, well organized shop area makes tools easier to find without the big chase to the other end of the building... Don't skimp on good lites or brite colors for the walls.. Plan early for floor drains, many folks slope the floor towards the big door, some use gutters..

Heating system?? endless choices here..


The storage area for tractors and vehicles would not need a finished floor, insulation, heating or as good of lites.. So you can cut costs here, or, make this area bigger!!..
 
Get several quotes on the structure, Morton, Olympia, General steel. Price out wood vs. steel, etc.

The price a pole building company gives you may be much cheaper then hiring a local crew.

Think------ Car repair, wood shop, machine shop, storage, Heat, compressed air, bathroom? floor drains, ceiling height, windows, lights, (theft proofing it) Alarm, how many doors?

Lots and lots to think about.
 
Some things I did that I love.

1st radiant floor heat
i built a bay with a lowered floor about four inches with grating. this is enclosed by ceiling high curtains. This area is my wash bays sand blasting area and paint area.All I do is shovel out the sand and wash her out before I paint.
third I put in a loading dock by digging out on the back side. Cant get a semi in but makes unloading heavy items out of a pick up a piece of cake.

The only thing i didn't do that I would have if I had the money or time to look for one then build the building around it is a bridge crane.

my 2 cents


Matt
 
I have built 3 of them all to small. If you live where you will have to heat it, PUT THE TUBES IN THE FLOOR for heat. I did in the first one and said I would never be without it. Guess what #2 didn't have it. Number 3 does. The first one I put in 2 water heaters to heat it. Used just one most of the time. #3 has one water heater. If you do use tubes in the floor, don't put in a floor drain unless you have a wash bay. Mine didn't have drains and I could put a vehicle with ice and snow on it inside to melt off, and overnite it all melted and the floor was dry. The mennonites who built my son's put in a floor drain and its just a collection point for dirt. I wouldn't put very many windows in it either they just lose heat in the winter and let heat in in the winter.
 
A lot of good ideas, I made my first shop to big for me. This one is just big enough to get the largest machine we own inside. Insulation Insulation Insulation. Spray the entire inside with closed cell foam, yes it is expensive. put insulation and plastic under floor. Then what you heat with won't make any difference. Put your air compressor outside. work benches end up being shelves. One big table is better. Now you won't have any excuse when it is to cold to work for everybody else. Have fun! Vic
 
Thanks to Christopher S who posted the GREAT link to the Grizzly shop planner. There is so much information on this site. Thanks
 
I'll agree with what others have said about two separate parts. My building is 40x50 with 17 ft ceiling. It is well insulated with an inner room that is 16x22x10 that is also insulated. I keep the inner room at usually about 50 and the outer at usually about 40 unless I have a project out there, in which case I fire up the propane salamander. The inner room is heated by a catalytic propane radiant heater, and my bill for heat last winter was $350, which I think is pretty reasonable.
 
Dave;
Have you thought about taking the next step and adding Solar thermo heat collection to your shops. The gov. hasn't figured out how to tax energy from the Sun, YET, and you can get tax credits up to 55% State and Fed. combined, here in NY, reducing your installation and operating costs significantly. I have installed over a dozen systems and My Equipment supplier is is closer to you than me. e-mail open
 
Actually, combine them for now.

Once you get going, you will find you will use the entire thing for a shop, so lave room/ plan for where you will build the stroage shed, or where you will add on. ;)

Will need to be bigger than planned, and taller. Always.

--->Paul
 
Sloping the floor towards a door is a definate no no in a cold climate, as others have said.

If you can't afford reforced concrete, wait till you can.

Keep the fill uniform and compacted so the floor does not crack.

Workbenches that have wheels is good, if not make the front support slant towards the back, and hang it from the wall...this way you can sweep the floor, and under the workbench with one swipe of the broom.

Having the trash, scrap steel, etc on wheels just makes things easy to keep house.

Toolboxes on wheels also places it next to the unit you are working on, and saves trips. Same goes if you take your machine to a implment dealer that has to walk back and forth on your time clock. One farmer said each step is about twenty cents at the current rates of our green implment dealer.

Lay a chunk of rail road rail upside down in some area so you can use a BFH, and straighten anything without chipping your cement floor.

A 4 inch pipe right next to each door to protect it is good. One that extends upward for a swinning chin hoist is very handy if you do not go the overhead crane system.

A friend just found a cheap used overhead crane, I think in Ill. but was to large for his purpose.

If it is like most shops, a restroom with a drain in the corner is a good idea, and have it plumbed for the pressure washer. We have all seen the usual rest rooms in shops haven't we? If a pressure washer could be used to wash it down, so much the better.

A steel floor from a farrowing house (one stall---5 x 7) with a 4 inch deep pit under it, works great for a welding station, you never have to mess with a ground clamp, and you can place a steel table over it if you so chose. The welding junk falls through, and not dance across the floor. You can lift it up by hand, and clean real easy. This isn't a real bad idea around the drill press etc either.

If you live in a cold climate, in floor heat is great, and infered is a second choice.

If you live in a cold climate, a lean to is great with small overhead doors to keep the main shop warm, but the lean to bays can be easy acessable, with a simple overhead door.

When you build, do not box yourself in, so you can expand someday without a large expence. Keep one end wall without doors, or windows so you can remove the endwall and add on some day at a very low cost.

Lights are great, but put several circuts, so you do not have to make it look like a football field every time you walk in...kind of a zone thing.

If you are in a cold area, perhaps a small overhead door, plus a larger one. You do not need to open a 16 x 16 door to drive you pickup or skid loader in, yet you have the big door option if needed.

Oilless air compressors should be stored at least a half mile from your shop so you do not have to listen the the stupid thing.

If you use a floor drain, make sure the contractor has a level handy -- it is unrealistic to think one inch of slope per half mile will make the floor dry. Place something under one of your kitchen table legs so it is up up a inch, and dump a glass of water on the table--you will undrstand then that water does puddle up.

Your shop only needs to be half as big as you planed---if your wife cleans the shop for you once in a while, when you are not around.

I was asked to build a lean to on a 80 fto machine shed one day, and as I went to look it over, it started raining hard. We ran into the machine shed and waited. I then told the farmer that with his permission, I would have the same square footage for him in a half a day. Burn the feed sacks, burn the twine, get rid of all the empty oil buckets....clean house.

He decided he could cleaned up the machine shed (after his wife got wind of my proposal) when she ducked in out of the rain...we laugh about it often.
 
I think I would pour the neccessary footings and install those pull points in the floor like body shops use for straightening frames. You can rig off of them, anchor, pick, pull, stretch and bind things down with them.
Of course footings for columns and a 20' piece of 2 ton monorail would go in then too. Imagine how easy it wouold be to split a tractor then.
 
Take your time to complete the design, so that the buildings end user,(you) are satisfied with the results, meaning it works as you want it too.

Take into consideration, things that need to coordinate together, plan for future use, ( ie; extra unused conduit in the slab, drain pipe or what have you - once its poured.... too late )


There is already some great information posted, just remember, "inspect your expect" size matters, locations of things matters, what is most important - prioritize etc. Take all things, large and small details into consideration.

Think about fasteners, hardware, and how those things work, say for example you erect a block wall, you want to mount something on that wall using expansion bolts, you will want to locate the fasteners in advance, so the cells of the block are filled, making a good connection, things like this are often over looked. Power is another one for example, locate what you need where you need it in advance, make sure you have a large enough service, receptacles, switches are where needed etc., do all these things systematically for each trade, from the site work to the finishes, checking off each so you know your design is complete, and coordinated. Nothing is perfect, so you do the best you can to eliminate problems up front, it minimizes things to a tolerance you can live with.

Once you have the design, have it drafted to reflect exactly what you want built, stuctural coordinated with architectural and M. E. P. (mechanical, electrical and plumbing items). If necessary, also have CSI specifications included, combine all pertinent information into " contract documents" so that when you ask for bids by your contractors, what you give them is complete and more than sufficiently detailed, so that the price reflects the building you want constructed. The contractors scope of work is defined beyond any doubt, also have a change to contract clause in case you need to change or add/delete something, often times this requires unit prices, alternates etc. contractors make good money on these items, so to be fair, it is important especially if you will be your own GC ( general contractor ) as you mention subcontracting major portions of work, in addition to what you will do in house.

Payments, never pay up front... period, use AIA percentage of completion method and hold 10% retainage on all contracts til the building is complete, and you have accepted the work. This gives you leverage in case something goes wrong or work is unacceptable, basically you pay monthly based on acceptable work in place, til the job is done and punchlist of any defects, incomplete or similar things are resolved.

Always maintain a presence when contractors are on site.


Again, take your time, do your research, make sure your design is complete, contains all information, satisfies your needs for the use of the building, these simple things are important and can help avoid major problems, delays and poorly done work.

Weather is always a factor, start at the onset of good weather, or leave enough time to be closed before winter so you can do the finishes inside, and not fight the elements. Timing and scheduling a building project regardless of size is always contingent on weather, play it smart, also a very good idea to create a construction schedule and include it in your contract documents so contractors realize you are serious about deadlines.

Well this is a bit different from what others posted but it is industry standard for large construction projects, even on the small scale, most if not all applies just the same.
 
No problem at all, I used it when we put an additon on to our shop for my wood shop. It was easy to move machinery around and make sure I had enough room for lumber to enter and exit the machines. It was also nice for laying out the conduit before putting in the floor.
 
My dad and I have been "going around" on building a shop here.

Our place currently has 3 buildings.. one 24x40 another approximate 24x40 (old corn crib) and a 30x40.. The widest door is 16', the tallest door is 8', the highest ceiling is 10'

Dad wants to add on, I want to put up new, as no matter what we add to, we don't have enough room to add on very much (as all of the buildings are close to one another.

We have decided that we want to get a "hoist", and I'd like a shop with a door tall enough that I don't have to remove stacks, or work in the driveway.

I've drawn up something several times, just can't get it figured out where I'll ever have enough room.. and thats if I quit collecting now.

I have decided that I'd like to build small "rooms" off of the main shop floor.. One room to put compressor in to muffle noise, as well as store extra hoses, tire tools, sandblaster, air tanks, etc (all "air related items in one spot); 2nd room for part storage (IE bolt bins, filters, oil, spare (NEW) truck/tractor/combine parts etc); 3rd room for office/bathroom
The room idea is partially a friend of mine's.. In these days, you just got to assume someday you'll be broken into (and usually it's someone who has been to your place before).. With things tucked into the rooms, when you have "visitors", unless they get nosy, stuff that is out of sight is out of mind.. Plus, it keeps "clutter" out of sight.

Another thing I can't pencil out is how big to make just the SHOP part of the building. The biggest thing I have is a smaller combine.. But, would be nice to be able to have room for combine and truck/car/tractor at same time. With a hoist, it has to be where it is easily accessible (not crap parked in front of it all the time), but would like it deep enough in that I could park my service/farm truck in front of it in the colder months.

A paint room is a whole different thing.. I'd too like to have one of those, but just don't know that I'll do that much painting.. It would end up being another place for crap to accumulate.

If I did get a new shop, I'd sure like to be organized.. Problem is, no matter how I arrange things in my current shop, I want to change it before long.. I can agree with rolling toolboxes and toolcarts though, specially in a bigger shop.

Brad
 
Depending on what you will be putting in the storage area, consider more doors to eliminate keeping a drive access out. More doors allow you to pack stuff tighter, but still get to it with little maneuvering of other items.
 
SKYLIGHTS if you can have them in snow country. I have 6? in a 40x60 and I LOVE them. The light they let in is absolutely perfect. They don't leak but I wouldn't care if they did because the light they admit is that great to work under.

Went 14x14 on the big door and it has worked out great. I Put in a 10x10 on one side near the welding area for ventilation and a 12x14 on the other side for pulling in other equipment so I can have a couple projects going on at all times.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top