Questions on sleeve install

I am repairing a 560 Farmall for a neighbor and have encountered a few things that I know others have seen. I could use some advise here.
The engine has dry sleeves which I removed. I cleaned up the bores and some of them had scratches from either removal or installations prior to this time. there is 1 cylinder where the scratch seems like it might be a crack. The machine shop lent me a hand held magnaflux and some powder. the closest we could get the magnet was on the outside of the block. the inside was magnetized and no indication of cracks was found with that method. I did the dye test and still no positive indications.(the tractor is being treated for a blown head gasket from overheating due to dust clogged radiator....after removal of the head, liners looked pretty bad so it was decided to replace liners/pistons)I am considering making 2 plugs to pressure test the cylinder bore just to make sure.My questions are:
1. are there any other methods to check this?
2. if it IS a crack, is there a methodology to seal when the liner is installed?
3. Installing the liners....Is never-seize an acceptable product to use on the bore and sleeve? also will freezing the liners before install make it easier.
I know there is a lot of expertise here, thanks in advance for taking the time to help me out!
Andy

loctite makes a product to use on the sleeves. i would not use anti-seeze, it may interfere with the heat transfer from the sleeve to the block. put the sleeves in the freezer overnite, they will shrink enough to get them in easier. have a block of wood and a mallet handy if you get a tight sleeve to drive it in.

Does that scratch (crack) show any signs of rust or discoloration?

I will second Loctite's sleeve sealer. It took care of a loose sleeve problem for me.

No signs of rust or discoloration
Andy

Was there any water in the oil?Was the oil milky?Like others asked was there any rust or discoloration around what you think is a crack?If you cant magnaflux it maybe see if there is another way to test it like with some dye.
Putting sleeves in the deepfreeze overnight works.You still want to have a big block of oak or something to lay on top and hit with a hammer to get them all the way down in case one hangs.If you hit the sleeve with a hammer its a good chance it will break right where you hit it.I had to tap one down with an oak block and a hammer on my H and didnt have any trouble.
You dont want anything between the sleeve and the block if you can keep from putting anything in there.Maybe if you arent sure about that crack you could put some JB weld over it,but you would have to sand most of the JB Weld off to get the sleeve in.
Others might have a better idea for that.If its cracked it wont work very good and you might need a different block.Actually,if you cant check it any other way,you ought to pull the block out and take it to a machine shop and have them check for cracks.That way you will know when you are putting it together what you have.Overheating means you need to look very closely for stuff that might cause that.
Was there an obvious blown out place in the head gasket?If not then was it low on water all the time?If there was no obvious blown place and it was boiling the water out,then you should be able to see if it was cracked.
You could pour hot water into the block if nothing else and see if it leaks.After you block off any place the water can leak out then pour hot water in until its up as high as you can get it and see if it leaks.It shouldnt be too hard to get 2 or 3 gallons of hot water.If there is a way to get about 10 pounds of pressure on it with hot water in it,thats even better.
You dont want to put anything on the liner because it wont transfer heat right.

Trucker 40
The head gasket was definitely blown Most definite between #2,3& 4 cylinders. Oil was little milky and a little antifreeze in bottom of oil pan (head removed prior to oil drain so some may have gone down oil passages)Tractor exhaust was white and smelled like anti-freeze which is what prompted this work. If I can post pics I think I may be able to get a good shot of the Cylinder bore and head gasket....I will go see if I can figure posting pictures out
Thanks,
Andy

I lay the block on its side and blow hot air from the ready heater though each bore before I install the frozen sleeves. The block should be hot enough so you can't keep your hand on it.
On a perkins, the sleeves will drop right in.If you stand the block upright and drop the sleeve in, the flange will hit and and the sleeve will bounce back up and may set up at this height. Catch the sleeve at the bottom of block so it won't bounce back up.

Even if its cracked you can get it fixed probably.Or maybe a used block somewhere.
By it having a badly blown head gasket like you describe you might be better off to pull it out and have it professionally tested for cracks.Maybe ask if there is way to check it for cracks like it is still in there first.By it being hot like that it could very well have cracked the block.Also if somebody put water in it while it was hot,cold water,in a hot block,could crack it.Its a lot better to let it cool off and then put the water in.

Those IH 560's had many left over machining marks left on them back then, even the injection pumps had them on the inside. That's just the way they did it years ago. It may be caused from when they pulled the boring machine out of the cylinder without it rotating.
The 560's were notorious for blown headgaskets. My advice is to get the head and block resurfaced. Just putting in my 2¢ worth.
My dad had a 560D years ago bought it new in 1964. I don't know how many times he replaced the head gasket and he never overheated the engine. My dad wasn't hard on equipment by any means.