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Wood splitter WOES . / need tech advice

olgentdc

olgentdc

Well-known Member
Location
Harrison County , Elizabeth Ind 47117
Go a nice designed 25 yr old Splitter ,, just replaced the pump ,, Still do not have Hi Speed travel at No load,, that was the reson i changed out the pump ,,, Changed out the Nasty fluid twice with Jd 303 ,,, NEW _pump worx Ok , Except I was able to JAM a block , and it refused to Split,,, 20 yrs ago this splitter would Split any Beach , Sycamore ,KNarlyazELM You would Throw at it With little more than a Groan ,, Something JUST IS NOT RITE ,,, Furthermore , it has developed a malady over the last 5 yrs , of having to elevate the nose (LOOSE PUMP PRIME ) in order to Start the NEW Briggs 5 HP engine,, I feel The Pump labors the engine more than it should ,. I think A valve is not opening and closing correctly and creating constant drag and building up heat ... Thanx For all responses...
 
A couple of Ideas,
1 Does it have a filter that could be plugged on the inlet side of the pump?

2.Could the valve have some junk inside of it not allowing the full pressure of the pump?

3.Are the hoses good, closing on the suction side,or pressure side?

If you could hook up a pressure gauge on the valve to see how much pressure it reads, maybe the valve needs to be adjusted.

Also could the valve be disassembled to see if there is any internal blockage from dirt,gunk,or maybe orings coming apart?
Hope this helps.LOU
 
Was the control valve replaced in the past? It sounds like the pump is dead heading on center and bypassing through the open center during operation.

Just a guess.

Aaron
 
Make sure there's nothing blocking the flow of oil. My brother had all kinds of problems due to an improperly drilled fitting. Just a thought.
 
Check the sucton side of the pump. Oten there is a mesh suction strainer inside the tank that can clog. Given the symptoms your describing as well as the "nasty" fliud you"ve changed out twice, if there is a strainer on the suction side it may very well be clogged.
 
Lou lists everything to check. Our neighbors seed wagon. I borrowed it. he said engine won't pull the auger anymore you will have to pull it with a tractor to run auger. I teed a gauge into the pressure line it had 1000 psi. evidently that is where the low pressure side quits and the high pressure starts. Turned relief screw in. pressure went up and motor pulled it easy. went ahead and set pressure at 2500 psi. It works good now. Pulls the engine the hardest at 1000 psi. The auger just takes 500 to pull it empty and 1200 loaded.
 
Might be a little weak on the engine. I re-engineered my splitter this fall with its own pump and tank. The pump is driven by the PTO on a tractor. My pump is a 16 GPM, two stage unit I bought from the Surpus Center in Lincoln, NE, and as I recall for this pump at least 9 hp was recommended. I'm running it off of an AC D19.

I have double pulleys sized to turn the pump about 2,000 rpm, and with a 4"X24" cylinder no load cycle time is 6-7 seconds each way. On a hard push, the cylinder slows noticeably as the pump shifts stages, then speeds up again when the load decreases. I haven't put a pressure guage on it, but it's gone through everything I've wanted it to this fall.

Just a thought and my .02.
 
Not sure I would have told the neighbor til he used it a few times. Then just reached up and ran it like it had always worked.

Just to see the look on his face!

Got in trouble a lot as a kid, I did.

Aaron
 
Is the slide worn to the point that it cocks sideways and binds?
Is the "NEW" B&S engine rated the same TORQUE as the old?
B&S was playing games with the HP "Rating" of their engines for a while.
 
Two stage pump is just that. Two pumps in one housing, and it shifts from high speed to low automatically according to PSI. If it's not working, the "automatic" part of the pump is not working or out of adjustment. If you do not HAVE a two stage pump, then this discussion is moot.
 
When you are running it does the cylinder get hot, like too hot to touch? If so the cylinder is bypassing and the seals are worn out and need to be replaced.
 
I think it's your cylinder bypassing since your pump is pumping oil and you're getting some movement on the piston. I built this back in 1982 and I used a Tecumseh 10hp engine off an old Sears garden tractor. I bought the control valve and 2-stage pump from Northern Hydraulics. The cylinder was off the Army's 8 ton Goer that was used for steering. It was sold at an Government auction. It had never been used and I found what it was for by the Federal Stock number. Hated to see that auction move away to near DC. Had some good bargains there. Hal
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Well guys,, NOT SURE WHAT PILOT VALVE ASSEMBLY IS ????I was able to match up Visibly the EXACT PUNP from the shelf at local tractor supply ,, It looks like the original , And is tagged as wood spliter replacement Pump . i was pleased to find exact pump . (except the reurn line is 5/8 rather than original 3/4). I did not compare technical capabilities ,,. It would not surprise me if the seals were bad in the ram after all the yrs of service .. Thanx for your interest and Advice , jh
 
Exactly Like ONE of Those , wish I would have checked the site FIRST because I had no Idea 9 sizes are offered ????, because Which one pump I got from TSC i do not Know , they only offered one , more than likely the lite weight one,, I will have to research tags ...
 
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