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O.T. Chevy vibration

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hope you folks could help me out with a bit of a strange problem. I have a 2001 Chevy 2500HD Silverado with the 6 liter V8 gas, auto trans and 4x4. It has 253,000 miles on it and is bone stock. It has what I can only describe as a buzzy vibration while under steady state throttle, mainly at 50-55 mph and at just over 70mph. It goes away when you let off the throttle or give it the gas to speed up. I replaced the drive shaft center carrier bearing (rubber mount wore out) but it didn't help. I've checked under the truck for any loose bolts, mounts or exhaust parts, checked the drive shaft (everything checked good) and the rear diff is still in good shape. All fluid levels are up to normal and all engine and tranny temps and pressures are normal. Don't mean to be long winded but this is getting annoying! Thanks for any help or pointers you can give me
 
Had a worn u-joint in the driveshaft do that. When you replaced the center carrier bearing, did you check the joints on each end of the shaft? Mine had 1 part of the joint with some missing ground up needles, until I took shaft apart to remove them, the joint looked fine.
 
Check the u-joints and tires for a thrown belt or may need rebalancing as been mentioned. Hal
 
Hey!

That's a good way to describe that symptom....."buzzy".

I never could come up with a word that would convey the difference between slower wheel/tire/road vibration and the irritating, faster drive train vibration. Thanks! :>)

Anyway, put the transmission in neutral and bring 'er up to the problematic engine speed; just to rule out the dampener, flywheel, clutch hub/fan/belt/tensioner, converter, etc.

If all is well and smooth as a baby's butt, you can just about bet that the vibration is still coming from that drive shaft.

Pull the drive shaft completely out of the truck 'cause ya can't find the problem with it mounted in place.

Usually (but not always) the rear-most u-joint is loose or is TOO TIGHT, middle u-joint, slip yoke dry/stuck or wobbled out, front u-joint, a bent or damaged shaft tube.

Again, check for a u-joint that is too darned tight as they need to rotate properly or they will vibrate with speed.

Make sure there is no lateral movement in the pinion yoke at the differential.

Oh, and I've never, ever seen a carrier bearing/mount cause a vibration, no matter their condition. The rubber can be completely gone to the point of the shaft screeching metal against metal and still they don't vibrate.

Problem could still be transfer case/front shaft, but the chances of that are just about slim and none.

Let us know what ya find,

Allan
 
Check the tires for strange wear and that the weights haven't fallen off.

Also make sure the weights haven't fallen off the driveshaft. That will also give a vibration at higher speeds by being out of balence.


bob
 
Does it make a difference if it's in 4x4 or not?
Check the front stub shafts from the differential to the front wheels,those shafts turn all the time.
Mine had a vibration that incresed with speed and two rebuilt shafts took care of it.
 
With that many miles, time to look for the unusual.
Take it you REALLY looked at drive shaft u-joints.
Rubber Bushings / trans mounts worn so that the driveline angle is off.
Springs bent, twisted-rusted center pin in the spring pack(s).
When you change u-joints try to mark the splines to go back the same way,
to index the drive line yokes with each other.
Most modern driveshafts are balanced. Did ya look for any weights missing.
Allen's procedure might indicate a cracked flexplate.
 
(quoted from post at 05:48:30 12/04/10) Hope you folks could help me out with a bit of a strange problem. I have a 2001 Chevy 2500HD Silverado with the 6 liter V8 gas, auto trans and 4x4. It has 253,000 miles on it and is bone stock. It has what I can only describe as a buzzy vibration while under steady state throttle, mainly at 50-55 mph and at just over 70mph. It goes away when you let off the throttle or give it the gas to speed up. I replaced the drive shaft center carrier bearing (rubber mount wore out) but it didn't help. I've checked under the truck for any loose bolts, mounts or exhaust parts, checked the drive shaft (everything checked good) and the rear diff is still in good shape. All fluid levels are up to normal and all engine and tranny temps and pressures are normal. Don't mean to be long winded but this is getting annoying! Thanks for any help or pointers you can give me
Click to expand...

Its not your tires,,, some dunno and are just run'n up their post count... Tires Don't Buzz

The tip is it happens under acceleration,,, one thing that would help is if you can make the noise happen while sit'n still in gear brakes applied with lite throttle,,, then I would be look'n for something hitting/loose/broke because of engine torque..

3 strange thinks I have found on a chebby truck

1) oil dip stick tube mount to head broke
2) right side of trans heat shield that shields the trans from the cat converter broke,,, its bolted to the trans with 2 bolts
3) cross member mount bolts loose,,, they would appear to B tight,,, you got to put a pull handle on'em and honker down on'em,, the tip off is rust around the bolts...

lots of things it could B,,, good luck no one likes hut'n down noises... You either a hero are a zero.... It sure nuff helps when you can put a good word to the noise... I had a Chrysler that sounded like you were removing a plate from the kitchen cabinet when you hit a bump,,, the noise was rite under my nose but liked to never found it... It took me days to pattern the noise and eliminate all the other noises that could play into the complaint,,, once I could put a word to the noise it helped to narrow down what I was look'n for... A car with 68K on the clock drove by a old lady,,, a 2001 Chrysler that mother nature had taken her toll on,,, it had a bunch of biodegradable parts....,,, a million parts retained with push pins,,, Ok that's my rant for the day..

If it were a Chrysler I could almost guarantee the cat converter was broke internally,,, never seen this on a chebby tho...


:p
 
Classic u-joint symptom.Take the shaft out all the way and give 'er a good physical.
 
Since I "need to run my post count up"..........don't discount it being your tires. Just went through something very similar with SWMBO's '05 CTS Cadillac. Front tires were 'cupped' and at certain speeds (usually around 55-60 mph) would buzz/roar. Cadillac technician said the tires were cupped because the front end was probably out of alignment; had it checked and it wasn't. Swapped the tires front to rear and the noise went to the rear. Independent tire shop said worn structs would cause 'cupping'; 2 new struts, 2 new shocks and 2 new tires and and the thing rides/drives/sounds just like when it was brand new; got about 100,000 miles on it.
 
Tires WILL make that kind of noise, just maybe not in this situation.

About 20 years ago, I had a Mercury that would pick up an odd buzz or rumble at about 55-60 mph. One of the techs from the local Ford store and I went nuts for a month trying to figure it out.

I had a fairly new pair of Sears tires on the front and a so-so pair of a different brand on the rear. On an inspiration, and out of desperation, I rotated the tires front to rear and the noise stopped.

Coupla years later, I again put a pair of Sears tires on the front and got the same noise back. Never did figure out what that car had against Sears tires.
 
(quoted from post at 06:09:03 12/04/10)
(quoted from post at 05:48:30 12/04/10) Hope you folks could help me out with a bit of a strange problem. I have a 2001 Chevy 2500HD Silverado with the 6 liter V8 gas, auto trans and 4x4. It has 253,000 miles on it and is bone stock. It has what I can only describe as a buzzy vibration while under steady state throttle, mainly at 50-55 mph and at just over 70mph. It goes away when you let off the throttle or give it the gas to speed up. I replaced the drive shaft center carrier bearing (rubber mount wore out) but it didn't help. I've checked under the truck for any loose bolts, mounts or exhaust parts, checked the drive shaft (everything checked good) and the rear diff is still in good shape. All fluid levels are up to normal and all engine and tranny temps and pressures are normal. Don't mean to be long winded but this is getting annoying! Thanks for any help or pointers you can give me
Click to expand...

Its not your tires,,, some dunno and are just run'n up their post count... Tires Don't Buzz

The tip is it happens under acceleration,,, one thing that would help is if you can make the noise happen while sit'n still in gear brakes applied with lite throttle,,, then I would be look'n for something hitting/loose/broke because of engine torque..

3 strange thinks I have found on a chebby truck

1) oil dip stick tube mount to head broke
2) right side of trans heat shield that shields the trans from the cat converter broke,,, its bolted to the trans with 2 bolts
3) cross member mount bolts loose,,, they would appear to B tight,,, you got to put a pull handle on'em and honker down on'em,, the tip off is rust around the bolts...

lots of things it could B,,, good luck no one likes hut'n down noises... You either a hero are a zero.... It sure nuff helps when you can put a good word to the noise... I had a Chrysler that sounded like you were removing a plate from the kitchen cabinet when you hit a bump,,, the noise was rite under my nose but liked to never found it... It took me days to pattern the noise and eliminate all the other noises that could play into the complaint,,, once I could put a word to the noise it helped to narrow down what I was look'n for... A car with 68K on the clock drove by a old lady,,, a 2001 Chrysler that mother nature had taken her toll on,,, it had a bunch of biodegradable parts....,,, a million parts retained with push pins,,, Ok that's my rant for the day..

If it were a Chrysler I could almost guarantee the cat converter was broke internally,,, never seen this on a chebby tho...


:p
Click to expand...

I think you might be on to something with the catalytic convertor, and it may not actually be the convertor, BUT it could an exhaust pipe coming apart on the inside, or the muffler falling apart internally. I have seen both of those happen and there were NO outwardly visible indications. Could also be as simple as a broken exhaust hanger.
 
The fact that you are not getting the buzz when you have more torgue on the driveline is the main clue here. When you are at a low torque cruise position the warn part in the drivelene is free to float and vibrate. When you step on the accelerator you take that slack out and the buzz goes away. I'd say u=jointscross shafts.
Have you ever replaced them. Ford pu usually need tham at about 80K.

Gordo
 
You say that it has the noise at a steady speed? Does the noise come and go at the same speed or does it have kind of a pulse. I had a car that would do that at about 60mph it would pulse when you held a steady throttle. I took the driveline in to the driveline shop and had it straightened and took care of the problem. Steven
 
I bought a new 2000 Dakota that after about a 1000 miles started doing that at about the 60-65 mph range. Faster it went away, slower it wasn't there. Dealer ended up replacing the drive shaft and that cleared it up. That was on a truck with only 1000 miles on it.
 
(quoted from post at 15:14:39 12/04/10) Since I "need to run my post count up"..........don't discount it being your tires. Just went through something very similar with SWMBO's '05 CTS Cadillac. Front tires were 'cupped' and at certain speeds (usually around 55-60 mph) would buzz/roar. Cadillac technician said the tires were cupped because the front end was probably out of alignment; had it checked and it wasn't. Swapped the tires front to rear and the noise went to the rear. Independent tire shop said worn structs would cause 'cupping'; 2 new struts, 2 new shocks and 2 new tires and and the thing rides/drives/sounds just like when it was brand new; got about 100,000 miles on it.
Click to expand...

I preformed a TSB on a cat like that ,,, that had abnormal tire ware,,, the fix was to replace the engine mounts... Shocks don't last long any more,, that's good for me,,, cupped tires certainty are a issue,,, normally the mud tire roar does not come and go,,, We all could come up with a diffident word for the noise,,, that's the problem,, its a educated guess most of the time...
 
how much slack is the rear transmission housing bearing where the drive shaft goes in, its just a brass bushing, and it doesn't take much wear to make a vibration, and with that many miles--
 
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