JD 3010 Electronic Ignition Exploded

Rick3

Member
Just put an electronic ignition kit in my JD 3010 to replace points... (1143 Ignitor in 1112577 Delco dist.) Tried to start it afterwards...just turned over...after checking found pieces of the main body (where the wires enter the body) of the EI in dist. Instructions mentioned 2 diff ways to wire...one with a resistor which I could not locate on my original wiring so I wired red wire to positive side of new Flame Thrower coil and black wire to negative side. Any ideas on why this happened... should there be a resistor?
 
Sounds like to me you got a defective one. I have them with their matching Flamethrower coils on 2 tractors here with no problems. I think if you read closely, the directions say you need at least 3 ohms primary resistance. A 6 volt coil is usually 1.5 ohms. I'd get a good digital ohmmeter and check the coil. Don't forget to zero the meter before you check it.
 
Did you get the standard Pertronix kit or the hi-po one. If the standard kit, your Flame thrower coil has a lower primary resistance than a standard coil does. The lower primary resistance of your Flame Thrower coil causes higher current flow than the standard module can take. This is when thing go BOOM. Be sure to match the kit to the coil you will be using.

Kent
 
Thanks for all the feedback! Yes that is exactly what I thought about the points laughing at me... I will check the resistance. I bought the coil at the same time I bought the EI so I assume he gave me the right standard FT coil. Before I tried to start it I touched the generator to battery connection on the voltage regulator as per owners manual to set polarity. It sparked when I did that but I would think it should have?? In the course of thinking about what happened I wonder if, when I set polarity, it didn't blow it apart then... I will call YTMag tomorrow and discuss but being electronic part I doubt they will think I got a bad one... I wished it were as simple as that.
 
I had been leaning toward the thought I needed a 3 ohm resistor and that is why it blew it out but I checked this morning and the coil has a 3 ohm resistor built in... I am stumped now. I tend to think I may have gotten a bad unit. As far as I can tell, I did everything by the book.
 
I put a set of points in the Ford 23 years ago.Used the tractor to move picnic tables yesterday.The tractor said wump twice and was running.Why should I spend 150 bucks for a ss ignition that may explode.Fools and money are soon parted.
 
It is a 12 volt negative ground system. In response to the points and a fool and his money... this is a propane tractor and very hard to start/ fouls the points when it sits which from what I understand is fairly typical with this set up. I was told the electronic ignition would help solve that problem... I only want to be able to turn the key and the tractor start! What a concept!!! But... I may wind up going back to point system though.
 
Don't worry Rick, there's one in every thread....Some lifeless armchair moron who's too stupid to know the answer but just can't resist posting SOMETHING cause they have to make themselves feel important....If you want electronic ignition in your tractor, go for it. And tell diklips here to blow it out his butt!! There'a a lot of good guys on this site who WILL help you.
 
36 coupe... see the following off the Pertronix web site as applies to coils with resistance built in... This is the coil I bought and installed... states 3.0 ohms resistance on the box:

While it's the perfect coil to go with the PerTronix Ignitor breakerless ignition, our 40,000 volt Flame-Thrower canister coil can benefit virtually any distributor type inductive system. Its higher voltage allows larger spark plug gaps for added power, smoother response and better fuel economy. These coils are internally resisted so they are compatible with many ignition systems.

Our oil filled coils offer great heat control for street driven vehicles, while our epoxy filled coils provide superior winding support for high vibration environments in offroad vehicles and boats.

Features
40,000 volts
Available chrome plated or black for that "stock look".
For use with inductive ignition systems.
1.5 or 3.0 Ohm primary resistance values available.
Legal in all 50 states and Canada. (C.A.R.B. E.O. #D-57-10)
Warranty: 90 Days
 
Rick:
Why are you even answering this know it all retard? He obviously knows NOTHING about tractors....In fact, I would venture to guess: 50 to 75 lbs overwieght, never married, never dated, still lives with Mom and can't find a job....so he spends his ENTIRE LIFE insulting people on forums. Maybe if we ignore him he'll give up and go to some other forum and pester them.
 
Update: I spoke with Pertronix Tech Rep... he said evidently someone had switched the coil around to where the positive side of coil wire went to the points and the ignition switch and some other wire went to the negative side of coil. He said it did not make any difference to the points but did to the EI and that was why it blew up. I had put the new coil in the same way as it was. He said to switch the negative side of coil (black wire) into the EI and put the other 2 wires plus the red wire from the EI on the positive side...exactly opposite from what it was. They are sending me a replacement. By the way...he said the new FT coil does have a built in 3.0 ohm resistor. I will write back when I get the replacement and try it again...I hope he is right!
 
Resistance in coils is controlled by changing wire sizes and number of turns.You cant put a heat producing 60 watt resistor inside an oil filled coil.
 
Wow Coupe!! How would we ever get along without you to tell us how those big bad coil companies are LYING to us? I for one am sure glad you're here to watch over us dumb, ignorant folk. Coupe, you're my hero.
Oh, by the way. I heard someone was badmouthing sparkplug wires over on the motorcycle forum. How about you run over there and protect those poor, dumb SOB's? And stay there.
 
(reply to post at 18:48:48 07/20/10)
Update: I spoke with Pertronix Tech Rep... he said evidently someone had switched the coil around to where the positive side of coil wire went to the points and the ignition switch and some other wire went to the negative side of coil. He said it did not make any difference to the points but did to the EI and that was why it blew up. I had put the new coil in the same way as it was. He said to switch the negative side of coil (black wire) into the EI and put the other 2 wires plus the red wire from the EI on the positive side...exactly opposite from what it was. They are sending me a replacement. By the way...he said the new FT coil does have a built in 3.0 ohm resistor. I will write back when I get the replacement and try it again...I hope he is right!

His right...I also got that same problem with Pertronix Ignitor Electronic. Exactly the same thing he said... The dealer where i purchased my kit sent me a replacement and things goes well now.
 
When I rebuilt my 1600, I kept points in it but put all new components in it from Agco. Within 20 hours they were giving troubles. I ordered a EI kit after changing the points/cap/condensor and it's got almost 400 hours on it now. It was Grandpa's tractor since new, and Mom said he was always replacing those parts. Must have just been something goofy about that tractor.

In my mind, it was money well spent on that particular tractor. For our other gasser (Massey 165) it runs fine on points and they last 5-10 years between changes. Not worth it for that tractor yet.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 

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