Sediment bowl gasket

paramedicchuck · Nov 15, 2010

I had the gas tank on my Farmall M cleaned out. The sediment bowl had a filter, but not a gasket. Without a gasket, the sediment bowl leaks the smallest amount of gasoline.

I cut out a new gasket to fit, using cork gasket material. It has helped, but hasn't solved the problem completely. Any ideas on how to make this stop leaking altogether? Better materials to use?

Thanks for any ideas.

PopinJohn · Nov 15, 2010

There should be a sediment screen and a cork gasket for the glass
bowl.
If you have a local tractor supply, or the dealer, or maybe on this
website, you can get these parts new.
Most common tall bowl gaskets are 2-1/8 OD, some IH small bowl
ones are 2 inch, and some Fords are either 1-3/4 or 1-7/8 OD.

Unruh · Nov 15, 2010

I just bought one this morning for a "H" from NAPA. # is 730-9510 $4.49. It's something like neopreme.

Bob Bancroft · Nov 15, 2010

Very often, at least on the AC's I work on, in an effort to make a poor gasket seal, the bowl is over tightened, and the soft metal will actually warp. Take a good look at that.

Anonymous-0 · Nov 15, 2010

I fought this problem on a new sediment bowl. The screen doesn't fit right. I removed the screen and it quit leaking. You may need to trim your screen. I left mine out. No more leaks.

fixerupper · Nov 15, 2010

Can't say anything better than what's already been said about the gasket and screen. Never could figure out how that setup seals a thin liquid like gasoline as well as it does. I've had fairly good luck by giving the glass bowl a little twist back and forth just as it lightly touches the gasket before you snug it up. It helps settle things in place. It's still not a guarantee but it helps. Jim

Anonymous-0 · Nov 15, 2010

Sometimes, on the persistent leakers, I use double thickness cork gasket. It fixes it for a while. I have also seen the bail nuts tightened down to the last thread, and just spinning. On these, the insertion of a dime or penny between the bail nut, and the bowl, sometimes works.

PJH · Nov 15, 2010

Yeah Bob, I ruined one on my JD 50. Warped the whole assembly and had to replace it.

Paul Janke · Nov 15, 2010

I don't remember if it included a screen, but I have had good luck using an o-ring.

gene bender · Nov 16, 2010

I wont use cork i get the screen and gaskets which are neoprene rubber from CAR QUEST cleaning up the assy can usually seal just using fingers. Som think a pliers ir the tool and end up warping the base so theres no way it can seal. New gasket and screen is less than 5 bucks. To seal the bulb assy in the tank i like the tube of Teflon on the threads in the tank and the fitting from the carb has done an excellent job for me. Nothing is worse than a gas leak on a new paint job. I have also used nylon thread to make a new seal for the shut=of valve on the sediment assy.

bc · Nov 16, 2010

The problem with leaving the screen out is that the screen stops the fine particles such as rust from flowing into the carb and eventually plugging it up. They have to settle out in the bowl. The flow is too fast for any settling without the screen and fine particles will remain in suspension in the gas. No screen defeats the purpose of the sediment bowl.

greygoat · Nov 16, 2010

I use hydraulic "Back up rings",(goes behind an
O-ring in hydraulic systems) of the proper size.
They work great!
I do have O-ring and back up ring "Kits" of about
60 sizes of each, in my shop, so its eazy to match sizes.

Sediment bowl gasket

paramedicchuck

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PopinJohn

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Unruh

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Bob Bancroft

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Anonymous-0

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fixerupper

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Anonymous-0

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PJH

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Paul Janke

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gene bender

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bc

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greygoat

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