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Copper pipe use for exhaust pipe

O

old

Well-known Member
Location
Camdenton Missouri
Will it hold up?? Ya I know why use a piece of copper pipe for an exhaust pipe on a tractor. Simple it is the correct size and it is what I have laying around. Any how I have this piece of 2 inch copper pipe I have on my Farmall BA will it hold up using it that way. I would never have known it was copper if I had not cut it and that is when I found out
 
You'll get a lot of galvanic corrosion where it screws into the manifold. I doubt it will last very long, but if you just want to use it temporarily, until you can find a piece of steel pipe, you should be okay for a month or so.
 
prolly last a while, but it bends easy when it get hot. nuther thing you can do with about a foot long piece of 2inch copper, drill some 3/8 inch holes all around on it , maybe a dozen, then get some old plastic garden hose, the kind of dark green stuff you can sort of see thru. cut some foot long pieces, then slide em in the pipe. toss it on a campfire after it burns down to real good embers and watch all the colors. kids get a kick out of it. kind of like the color pine cones ya put in the fireplace.
 
Copper pipe will work just fine. I put an exhaust pipe on a mf65 and it was just as good after ten years as the day that I put it on. The only thing that I had to do is solder it with silver solder so it would stay together when it got real hot. No rust and cost about ten bucks at the time compared to 150 at the dealers. I don't like getting riped off.
 
It will certainly disapate heat well. Remember the old sidepipes like from the T-Bucket hotrods where there were individual crome pipes from the exhaust ports of the heads to side mounted mufflers or pipes? They used to discolor because of the heat, so we used to wrap an inch or so of bare copper wire on each individual runner at the head flange to greatly disapate the heat and decrease the discoloration. That was back then and we were punks. These days, the only chrome pipes are on the Hogs, and if they aren't pink, blue, purple, green, and other colors, then thats a Hog that don't get ridden and does nothing for me.

Mark
 
You got nothing to loose! Post back a year from now with results.If it melts, don;t let it burn you or cause a fire. It all depends on how hard you work the tractor and exaust temp.
 
Hello old,
We put a tail pipe of copper pipe on a 67 mustang. It was sold with it still on.
By the way i asked you about the E7014 welding wire becouse the primary use is for inclined and short horizontal fillet welds. It was not specified from Lincoln Electric for overhead welds. If it works for you, then all is well.
Guido
 
Melting point is 1981 degrees F No issue on heat, do it. If the muffler is a light weight normal IH type it should be strong enough as well. It will be weaker than steel, but go for it. Jim
 
It is just going to be a simple straight pipe with a flapper on top. Slips over the steel pipe that is welded to the manifold so that area is not a problem.
 
Look in that scrap pile under the B. There's probably some 2 inch steel pipe in there.LPL

Gordo
 
Rich, if you use soft copper it won't break the manifold when you snag the exhaust on a low hanging tree limb (wink). Jim
 
The Cu will do fine, I did the same thing replacing the exhaust pipe on a LeCar (memory test) with some copper I had. Ran it thousands of miles and was on when I sold the car.
 
Some years ago or decades I suppose as they like to say now, a friend made one up for his pick-up and it came apart pretty quick because the solder melted. Maybe today's lead free has a higher melting point.
 
Water jacket inside the cylinder head may have something to do with the aluminum not melting.
I seen a V4 Wisconsin hole a cylinder head. Turned out it was running hot due to late ignition timing from mis-matched timing marks.
 
I'll join/agree with the galvanic series crowd and mention the only issue I see is what was mentioned below; also called dissimilar materials, copper/iron, copper/steel etc. maybe from your welding days you might know ?

Most likely will happen at any connection points, kinda like a battery does at the post terminals, so unless you were able to devise a "bond breaker" something separating the 2 materials from contacting each other, so they don't react, something to consider. Pipefitters use dielectric unions when making transitions between dissimilar pipe materials, as per the galvanic series. For use around a farm, would have to say it would last awhile, might oxidize a bit at first, but I'm not sure on corrosion, suppose the pipe wall thickness would dictate how long it would last.
 
I am thinking that due to the heat and all the to should not react much if any but I will not be sure of that till say a year from now. The fit of the inner pipe that sticks up about 6 inches or so is not real tight as in maybe a 1/6 of an inch gap. I did find the copper pipe sure didn't want to bend well what I tried to bend it to put a curve in the end
 
Ya I was going to polish it up but then figured if I did and some one saw it then it might go bye bye but then the person who would do that would have to have some big balls LOL. But some one did have balls since they stole a couple parts off a school bus I own plus shoot the windows with a BB gun
 
Le-Car was one made by Renault and was not that bad a little car and boy what gas mileage they got. I owned a few of the old Renault like the R-10 and loved them and hated them at the same time
 
But you learned a lot from them, didn't you. My Dad had an R-10 with the "automatic" transmission. He sold it before I had a chance to to buy it for the engine that I wanted to put in my Caravelle. Those Renaultd had more in common with the Allis Chalmers than any other vehicle, IMHO
 
Might want to check a boat yard for a gasket sealer tube. Copper and brass exhaust relatively common on the inboard engine units. Last year saw a salvage of a 2.5 4 cylinder basic GM engine from a holed boat hull(Ethanol involved)
Engine was put in small van someone drove maybe 2 years without checking, changing oil,- manifolds and piping were saved for the metal- Copper pipes, brass manifold and carburator. Gasket sealer was noted as corrosion proof.
 
I liked the R10 because of it being a rear engine car and you could start it with the jack handle. Plus the way we used it back then was to get from our apartment to the base so common to have 4 or 5 guys in it and if you had a flat no need for a jack 2 guys would lift the car while the other 2 or 3 pulled the tire off and installed the good one
 
(quoted from post at 16:06:17 11/03/10) It is just going to be a simple straight pipe with a flapper on top. Slips over the steel pipe that is welded to the manifold so that area is not a problem.
Click to expand...

Oh, if you could keep that polished up, it would look SWEET!
 
I started to do that but then figure if I did keep it looking good someone else might see it and have to have it. Plus do you know how hard it is to shine up a pipe that is 2 foot long and 2 inches in diameter LOL
 
Well, if a thief tries to steal it while it's hot, maybe you will be able catch them red handed.

Had a muffler fall off my motorcycle years ago riding down the road. Turned arund and went back to toss it out of the middle of the road before it got run over. Never again.
 
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