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0T:1970 Chevy Pickup Ignition

T

The JD Workmen

Member
The other day we stared or chevy one time it started and ran fine for a few seconds then the starter kicked in other time the starter would not disengage. We think it is the key ignition. So we started to take it apart and there is a chrome ring around it that should thread off but it doesn't it just spins. Here my questions.

1.How do you get the chrome ring off?

2. where can you get new parts?

thanks for all and I will try to add any info that I left out if needed.

Sorry about the first pic but it hard to take one under the dash.
a24929.jpg

a24930.jpg
 
You have to remove the lock cylinder FIRST so the bezel nut can come off.

To do this, turn it (IIRC) to the "ACCY" position and insert a straightened-out paper clip in the little hole near the key to depress a spring-loaded pin behind it that limits the rotation of the lock cylinder. While holding the paper clip in place turn the cylinder MORE to the left and it should then pop out.

ANY auto parts store with access to Standard Ignition, Neihoff, Echlin/NAPA etc., can get you a new switch.

HOWEVER, BEFORE going to all that trouble, disconnect the connector from the back of the switch and leave it hang. Then, with the battery disconnected, clip a jumper wire to the "S" terminal on the starter-mounted solenoid and bring the other end up top near the battery.

Make SURE the transmission is in "neutral" or "Park", connect the battery, then touch the jumper wire to a voltage source and note if the starter behaves normally WITHOUT the ignition switch in the circuit.
 
I was going to say something but you covered it so well I'll leave it alone. I was going to say remove the start wire from the soliniod and see if it stops but then that is how I would do it on a 6 cylinder but the V-8s that is not so easy
 
Hey, even if it's a V-8 it's not all that hard to get the wire off of the "S" terminal on the starter, IF you put your mind to it!
 
I'd have checked the starter first. It's a heck of a lot easier, and they have been known to stick.
 
If I had to guess from past experiences, starter drive or solenoid, and that's a toss up. The starter drive won't engage if the solenoid doesn't energize and toss it into the flywheel, but the starter drive has a spring that disengages it from the flywheel once the magnetic field of the solenoid deenergizes. Could be the switch, but I'm guessing solenoid or drive. And if by some chance you do pull the starter or replace it, don't forget the shims.

It is easier to jump the 12V source to the starter wire to the solenoid at the ignition switch to test though, then it is to jumper it underneath at the solenoid.

Thanks for the pictures. Brings back memories of my old '69 K20, green though. Never should have sold that truck. Stupid me.

Mark
 
you put the wire in the hole to depress the plunger, then turn towards the acc. position and keep on turning.

But the key switch is not the problem.
 
If your switch returns back to the run position after you let go from the start position it is most likely your starter solenoid is sticking, replace it and your good to go.
 
If you find THAT annoying, replace the starter and a Durastroke or a Powermax diesel. Did one of each lately and was VERY ANNOYED each time!
 
Are those as bad as or worse then replacing the starter on say a GMC Sanoma with the V-6 where you have to remove 3 parts plus stand on your head to get it out. Or maybe the old Chev chevett (sp) where you had to jack up the engine and remove the one motor mount to pull the starter?? Ya seen some real winners and still think all engineers should engineer things for 2 years then work on them 2 years and they might change the way the engineered things
 
I agree it could be other stuff. To get the switch and key lock out you need to put a wire into the small hole by the key, this releases the parts so they can be turned out.Don't remember the rest of how it works.Chevy used to put a plastic piece in with the new parts so you could get them in and out.A wire will work fine.
 
I doubt the key-switch assembly is your problem. But, if it is . . . I've got a 70 Chevy and a 71 GMC pickup sitting in my field, both with working switches.
 
I agree with it being unlikely the ignition switch is faulty. For just about any little part you need for an old truck, google LMC Truck Parts. If I remember correctly, they are located in Lenexa KS (Kansas City) but ship anywhere.
 
Leave the switch alone.I put a rebuilt starter on mt 77 for 30 bucks.I did many repairs on it but gave up.You cant test the ignition switch by removing the small wire from the S terminal on the starter and hooking a test lite on the wire.Have a helper watch the lite while you turn the ignition to start and see if the switch is working right.The Chevy starters are a poor rig. A small screw often loosens up so the starter gets no power.The Chrysler starters from the 60s on were worse, pure Junk.Always check the easy things first and ask questions BEFORE you do something.
 
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