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clay soil defies the laws of physics

Geo-TH,In

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
It has been very dry in W centeral Indiana. Last rain was a 1/10 in 10 days ago. Went to back fill a foundation and discovered moisture just under the surface of this dry dusty clay. This soil is weird. It takes a long time for water to soak in and drain. There is about 2 1/2 feet of clay over top of sand and gravel. Within 100 ft of this house is an old county gravel pit that drops off 40 ft. There is over 40 ft of sand and gravel under the clay so drainage isn't a problem. The problem is the clay is a sponge that won't dry.

You can see the pic where just under the surface the ground is wet looking. Decided to put 8 + inches of sand and gravel from the gravel pit next to the foundation then cover with clay. Tapered the clay so the water will run away from house.

Notice my lazy way of unloading the sand and gravel. IH C has enough power to pull an estimated 3 ton up the incline of the gravel put. Biggest problem is traction.
George
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Been dry here to, but those soils are nice to work in aren't they ? What is the coating on the block, some type of waterproofing ?
 
It would be better if you backfilled with some good soil instead of that clay. You want the moisture to get into that sand layer as quick as possible and drain away from the basement wall. If the clay is of the expansive type, constant wet/dry cycles over several years could push the blocks in.
 
I farm that stuff, except it is mostly 250 feet deep here. We cringe at any rainfall over an inch and 1/2. Last year it never rained, corn was near record, the subsoil stayed wet & we got enough rain early for the corn to send down roots.

--->Paul
 
it doesn't defy physics.. it obeys physics.

clay is an aquaclude. you can get perched water tables setting under good soil and on top of clay.. clay that holds water will also expand and contract based on moisture.

I wouldn't have any of that stuff anywhere NEAR a house foundation.. only asking for trouble backfilling with it.

hope the homeowner puts down carpet and not tile.. and doesn't mind alot of cracks in the slab... :(


soundguy
 
Look at the form, I backfilled with 8 inches of sand and gravel, not clay. At footer level is sand too. No basement, just crawl. Sealed the block too. Topped with clay to ack as a roof. The clay top will make the rain flow away from foundation not soak in. Made a trench for all the rain to find its way to the gravel pit. When it rains there is a river from all the runoff.
 
Old school farmers thought that hard packed soil drys faster because of capillary action. Isn't that true? You can't believe how hard this soil gets. I think you could make bricks out of it.

BTY. We don't use slabs in Indiana like they do in Florids. Only the cheap homes have slabs here. Slab floors are TOO COLD in the winter.

I have 1500 sq feet slab 6 inches in my pole barn and not a single crack. The ground was rained on and let dry and the concrete was done after the barn was built so the sun didn't get to it. Done the old school way with wire and by a pro who only used the barn walls as a form. Used a laser level to shoot grade. One continous pour.
 
I can pour a slab with no cracking if I am allowed to controll the materials and consolodation under it.

can do the same for a roadbed.. been doing that for over a couple decades now..

soudnguy
 
I don't know what controlled materials and consolodation you are talking about, my pole barn floor was poured directly on the ground, clay. However, I angled the dirt so all the rain runs away from the barn and the house to the gravel pit. That took some time to fine tune so very little water settles in the trench. Perhaps, if it ever rains, I'll post a pick of the river produced by the run off.
 
Around here the soil is hard as a rock. Had to use the back claw to break up the dirt. Had to use a hammer and crow-bar to remove the clay from the basement block.

Sealed the block with a zinsser product, watertite. The boss liked the color. Got it at menards, $62 for 3 gallons and that did 2 coats, 150 + sq ft. Went on fast. I'm a fan of zinsser products. This produce can be used on the inside too, but only on block that hasn't been painted.
 
"I don't know what controlled materials and consolodation you are talking about"

i've only had the pleasure of building a couple roads that we were allowed to follow the natural contours of the ground, and not have to cut or fill any.

thus.. if cutting and filling, you are removing or adding material.. if adding material.. good control of what goes in, and good control of compaction and cosolidation are prime factors in preventing cracking from setteling or insuficient foudation or subgrade.

if you are lucky enough to cut into in place soil and not have to add fill to the area to flatten it, you are ahead of the game.. unfortunately while florida is flat.. it is unevenly flat.. to make a 20x20 square just about anywhere around here requires a lil cut n fill :)

soundguy
 
No kidding, I am familiar with Zinsser, never knew they made a product for masonry, it looks like an epoxy. Some block is more porous than others, I think it depends on the condition of the molds they are formed in, that porosity is definitely a waterproofing issue.

We have clay, gravel mix, well drained but when it dries out, hard like concrete. Some areas are just pure gravel with some round stone, but that is nice soil to work in, well drained, easy digging because of the fines in it, which is like coarse sand, my friend built a house on it, some veins in it were good enough to make mortar, very clean in some areas.
 
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