Deckover trailer with rusted out frame, what to do

Bought a 27 ft deckover bumper pull trailer for a good price sight unseen as it was represented in great condition and paid well in advance, now too late to go back after seller. After it was home for a bit I got to cleaning the frame up and the frame is swiss cheese. The 4 x 1/4 inch perimeter channel/rubrail is in good shape, the 3" channel crossmembers are in good shape. The 1" rebar rail on top of the rubrail is fine. The 2.5"x14" decking is in good shape (scaffold planks)

The trailer is for hauling hay and 7000 lb tractor, and is far too heavy for how flexy it is.

So I'm trying to decide what to do.

1) Simple cut out the rusted beams and replace with same as what was there and sell it. The 5" x 1/4" frame channel is in my opinion a bit light for a 12,000 lb trailer that is 27 ft long.

2) Cut out the rusted 5" frame, extend the 8"x3/16 channel of the tongue to past the axles to form a new frame and cut the 1" rebar off to make up the extra weight. 8" is pretty expensive up here.

3) Get some used mobile home frame I beam to replace the frame? I have never been around this stuff to know what it is like. Does it come in different weights per foot?

I assume you're talking C channel for frame rails
post a picture or sketch with dimension from hitch to deck, hitch to front axle, distance between axles, and rear axle to end of deck. Also width of trailer,distance between frame rails, and distance between cross members and I'll calculate out what you need for beams. Channel comes in a height x weight per foot. to take the torsion out of the trailer simply weld in a closed section such as pipe between the two frame rails.

I think the easiest thing, if you can do it, is to replace the rusted sections with the same material and then box the channel in with some heavy flat bar like 3/8" thick. Another option is to add say 3" channel or tubing underneath the 5" channel. Either way would need to be done properly so you don't warp the frame like a pretzel from too much heat. Dave

27 foot bumper pull? Not for me. By the time you rebuild it, you'll probably have more in it than it's worth. Personally, I'd either try to sell it and recoup some of my money or see what it'd cost to cut it down to 16 foot w/appropriate repairs. BTW, my 27 foot gooseneck has got 12 inch main frame channel under it.

It is all c-channel, tube rusts worse up here.

Hitch to deck is 4 ft. 5" frame forms tongue via mitre at front edge of the deck. The tongue is doubled inside the 5" with 8" x 3/16 channel, also mitred at the front of the deck then continues 4 ft beyond the mitre below the deck.

15 ft of deck in front of the axles centre point, 12 ft behind. Axle spread is about 3 ft.

Trailer is 8 ft + a couple of inches wide. I'll have to measure the frame, about 6 ft though, its tight to the single wheels that tuck under the rub rails. Cross members are pretty widely spaced, maybe 18-20", I assume that is why the deck is so heavy. A quick calc tells me when the hemlock deck is wet (always up here) it weighs almost 2000 lbs.

It doesn't seem to have much problem with torsion, the are a couple of extra crossmembers and frame structures for storing ramps in the middle that stiffen it up in torsion, but I haven't dared load it heavy after finding the rust.

I'm considering chopping 3 feet of the back as well, as I don't absolutely need it to be so long. I've also considered goosenecking it when I do the frame work and moving the axles rearwards instead of shortening. Not sure on that though.

First time photo posting

Looks like a homemade trailer.Needs a rear bumper, mud flaps, brakes on all wheels to be legal.

to be legal in what state? Bumper on a trailer?

In Canada, no mud flaps needed, or bumper. It does have brakes on all 4, including a breakaway box. Wiring is all transport trailer style.

It was built by a trailer manufacturing company, but it is old, 1989 or 1986 can't remember.

If it's high enough for a car to run under most dot states require a bumper.I think the minumim is 38 inches.

It has been through at least 22 safety inspections here and never needed a bumper. It would be a useless trailer if it had one, it already drags its butt going into driveways despite being about waist high on the deck and having the last two feet of frame trimmed.

How you you guys deal with tilt decks down there with the knife edge facing traffic?

Ken,

Assuming they are 7000# axles you were on the light side with the 5" frame. When I calculate it for deflection with a safety factor of 3 I would use at least C 8 x 11.5 for channel or s8 x 18.4 I beam (8" wide flange would work as well) The higher the member height I or C the stiffer the trailer frame will be. There is no need to go more than 8" as it is over kill already unless you can get some cheap material. I would weld some 3" pipe between the frame rails if using C channel

Ken 27 is long for bumper hitch I move tractor/implement or about 100 bales on about 16-18 foot. You might need a 3rd axel too. As for the structure if you are not a skilled welder hire one I have seen to many trailers home made and poorly welded.

It is long, but not worse than any camper other than dragging its tail. I already move 45 bales a shot on a 8 ft trailer, and 90 or so on my 1 ton (has a long power lift gate) so I'm looking to get in the 200 bale range on this trailer.

I can hold my own welding except overhead so I'd be rolling the trailer over and blocking it with a slight arch to do the work.