Modei 124 Cub Cadet Voltage Regulator

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
The original voltage regulator has 3 terminals. I bought A used one on ebay that has 4 terminals. Can I make this work and how? I hope some one can help me . THANKS
 
YES it can still work provided its a relatively close match in field current specs to your generator (so it dont over current the gennys field windings) and is also suitable for your ground, be it pos or neg.

A 3 terminal VR has (BAT ARM/GEN and FLD) terminals

A 4 terminal VR has (BAT FLD LOAD(L) and ARM/GEN) and often ARM/GEN is off on one side or the bottom all by itself

One way to make it work is just use the 3 BAT ARM/GEN and FLD terminals wired exactly the same as the old VR and ignore the LOAD (L)....... BAT on VR to ammeter......FLD on VR to gennys FLD post,,,,,,,,,ARM/GEN on VR to gennys ARM post,,,,,,,dont use L

The engineering better way would be to feed loads like lights and ignition etc from the VR's LOAD (L) terminal instead of from the Load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter but that takes an extra wire down from the dash to L on the new VR. On the 3 terminal VR system a wire off the Load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter provides hot voltage for lights n ignition while on the 4 terminal VR its LOAD (L) terminal does that instead.

Got it???????

John T
 
The OEM regulator on most Cub Cadets with starter-generator is Type-A, four terminal . . . Light (L), Battery (B or BAT), Field (F), and Armature (A or GEN).

Same reg is used on many Ferguson, Deere, Wisconsin, Massey Ferguso, Briggs & Stratton, Bolens, etc. Part numbers can be . . . DELCO 1118981, 1118988, 12336883, D655, PRESTOLITE 8-297, 8-788, GRX-297
MASSEY FERGUSON 1825-48-M91, 1825-48-M92, 1900-343-M91, 511-472-M1, John Deere # AM30078, Briggs & Stratton # 295924, Johnson Electric 0218821, RFT12A3

What part # is the old reg. you took off? I suspect maybe the old one doesn't have the "L light-terminal" for the extra charge rate when the lights are being used? If so, you can get by without it.
 
Here's some info from the Delco Remy service-bulletin. It says not to use the regulator without the "L" terminal on tractors.

That being said, I've done it many times. I just crank up the voltage. But, that's on tractors that don't get used a lot. If a tractor was used many hours at a time, it could be a problem.

Delco-Remy field-service bulletin for L and non-L type regulators.
D-R bulletin # 7275, July 8, 1969

STANDARD CURRENT-VOLTAGE regulator often used in cars and trucks. A regulator
without the “L” terminal is unsatisfactory for tractor use because the low volage settings
would result in an insufficient charge to the battery during cool weather. This condition is
more pronounced in tractor batteries because their location usually allows them to become
colder (that in autos and trucks). If the voltage setting is increased to compensate for the
cold, the setting will be too high in warm weather.


NON-STANDARD COMBINATION CURRENT-VOLTAGE regulator with “L” termial
. When a heavy load is used, especially lights, the generator output increases. The
regulator has an extra terminal marked “L” which is connected with the lower contact
point in the cut-out relay. This extra terminal permits current from the generator to be
diverted to the load without it passing through the current-voltage regulator. Generator
output, therefore, is allowed to inrease to a value sufficient to handle the load and still
supply charging current to the battery (if limits are not exceeded).
 
On the regulator had the rubber strap mounting break, regulator good otherwise, does it have to have that strap for to isolate it, so it dosent ground, or will mounting direct to steel, Like fastening with a piece of steel wire work?
 
It is not isolated. There is supposed to be a metal-braided flexible wire the connects the main part of the reg to ground. Sometimes after years of vibration, that wire breaks and then the reg. stops working.
 

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