Diesel Problem Solutions

Hello fellow tractor owners;
Just to let you know, I spent alot of money trying to fix my tractor that had diesel related starting problems, and thanks to this forum, I was contacted by "[email protected]" and provided very useful tips on fixing the problem. To make a long story short, I had to send them my diesel pump from Texas to S.C. via post office for $12/each way. They fixed the problem in one day and returned my pump and now my tractor runs Great!!! Their prices, you cannot beat anywhere. If you are having diesel problems, send them an email, they're extra friendly.
Thanks for the opportunity to send this message.

I fixed one myself last night. My 85 Ford 6.9 just all of a sudden wouldn't shut off. Had to put it in gear and kill it. Guess the solenoid in the top went bad. I had another pump here with a bad governor ring,so I took the top off that one and put it on the one in the truck. It works,so it doesn't seem like I messed anything up. That was a first!

I can't argue with success, but the solenoid cannot go bad and prevent "no shut off." Solenoid pulls the injection pump into "run", and a spring pulls it into "off."

If the solenoid goes bad, the engine quits. Sounds like you had something stuck, like the metal swing-arm that's pulled by the shut-off spring.

Hey, jd, haven't you ever had a Roosa solenoid get full of metal filings around the plunger (from the governor beating itself to death due to a failed damper ring) and stick causing delayed shutdown or no shutdown at all?

Yes, sure have. That would be a mechanical problem with debris, not a burnt out solenoid. Plunger, swingarm, or both can get stuck. I've had to free up many.

where in SC?

KEH

Don't know John. I put the one off the old pump on the negative battery post and touched a jumper wire to it and it flipped back and forth when I put current to it. The "bad" one didn't move. Can't explain it,just know it works now.

The solenoid winding is an electro-magnet. When you energize it - it pulls a metal swing-arm that acts against the shut-off spring. I.e., power creates magnetism that pulls against the spring and puts the pump in "run." Cut the power, and the spring shuts the pump off.

If you took one assembly off (cover with solenoid, plunger and swing-arm), put power to it and saw no movement - I'm assuming that is because the metal swing-arm was already all the way over in "run" position. You DID say it wouldn't shut off, so I assume that's where it was. If so, it can't move any further, bad or good solenoid.

I wasn't disputing your problem or your sucessful fix. But, I know some people on this forum don't realize how that solenoid works - and the same type is also used in many farm tractors.

The older solenoid-swing-arm assemblies had no plunger to get stuck inside of them. The later ones do. Probably what happened is what Bob mentioned. Some debris got stuck in the plunger, plunger stuck in its bore, and the swing-arm got stuck in "run" position. I've seen many do it. Usually pretty easy to pull it apart, clean it and get it working.

The older solenoid assembies had no plunger to get stuck. But, the plunger was added because the plungerless assemblies had the reverse problem. They wouldn't always pull the pump into "run" position. So between the two versions, I guess I'd rather have one that got stuck in "run", rather then one that got stuck in "no run."

Yes, please where. Hopefully the upstate.

That's all I could figure,that it had some kind of a "default run" position when it goes bad.
It didn't make sense to me either,but what I know about electronics,you could write on the head of a pin with a railroad spike. I just shrugged my shoulders and put the wrenches away and thought it was a good victory.

Yes, and it's always nice to have spare parts around. I've still got my 1985 F250 with the 6.9. Great engine, but kind of a fuel hog. 4.10 gears and a C6 with overdrive gives 11-13 MPG in a 4WD extended cab F250.

I've also got a 94 F250 with the last IDI 7.3, with ATS turbo, 4.10 axles, 4WD, extended-cab and overdrive automatic. It has more power and better mileage. Gets a best of 17 MPG. Not as good as my 92 Dodge-Cummins, but close enough. THe Dodge pulls like crazy and rides like a tank. The Ford doesn't pull as well, but rides like a Cadillac.

7.3 IDI turbo is basically just a 6.9 with a slightly bigger bore and anodized pistons to help live through turbo-boost.

Ever check boost PSI on your's? I'm just curious. I've got a Banks on my 86 Chevy 6.2 and it never goes higher then 6 PSI. My 94 Ford with the ATS factory turbo maxs at 7 PSI.