Way O.T. - Breaking through a brick wall (neatly)

This is quite O.T., so I apologize in advance.

I am in the process of constructing a chute to bring firewood into the cellar (only access point from outside, no bay doors). In order to do that, I need to break through a brick wall three bricks deep. I also need to do it neatly so that I can square it off and insert a small framed door. I have tried a hammer and chisel, slegde hammer, LARGE crow bar, etc. All I get is small chips (feels like breaking out of prison). The only thing that is somewhat promising is a air chisel (but my compressor is too small).

Any ideas on how to make a neat square opening 21"x15" would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Id go to your local rental store and get a cement saw.I think it would cut through 3 layers of brick pretty easy.

I used a gasoline "chop saw" and a drill with carbide bits to cut an opening in the base area of a chimney in order to install a cleanout. Most rental places have the saws. I don't know what the proper name is, but in the local concrete industry, it's called a chop saw. Basicly a chainsaw engine powering a circular concrete cutting blade. Lots of smoke, dust and noise. Do it when momma isn't home. And study the physics of the machine before you begin. It's a powerful machine - must be ready for kickback and other surprises.

Paul

I would maybe think of renting a cement saw, but you would still have difficult corners to deal with.

A cement hammer drill could also be rented --- May be a better choice too. boxing it back in with wood will cover some pretty bad mistakes. that is what a carpenter told me one time .

Get a diamond blade that goes in your skillsaw. Forget the fiber/abrasive ones that say they are for masonry. Diamond blade is about $40 at Home Depot etc. Cut the wall from both sides then sledge hammer it out. I always use a hose with a trickle of water on the blade to keep the dust down. I've probably cut out for 30 egress windows and have to cut through basement floors all the time to install the waste and vent lines for new bathrooms, etc.
Now I know someone is gonna jump on me for using water around a skill saw but I've done it hundreds of times - wear out a new skillsaw every year or two doing it. If you are real worried about shock plug the saw into a GFCI outlet. Use a double insulated saw - plastic handle/2 prong plug. I have never once gotten even a tingle. Knock on wood...

Maybe a .50 cal Barrett rifle, and about 50 rounds of ammo...... and some ear plugs.

Use a diamond blade as mentioned, but first use a masonary bit (about 1/2") to mark your cormers. That should help prevent cracking. When you get your opening done, don"t forget you will need to install a lintel at the top. It will need to probably be at least 1/2" thick and the width of the wall. Use the masonary bit to drill out a series of holes at least a half brick wide a both sides at the top of the opening, clean out with a chisel. Use masonary caulk to seal the lintel in.

I saw on "This Ole House" a contractor using a saw to cut through a concrete wall to make a door opening. He had it suspended so he didn't need to hold it and he used a lot of water
to cool the diamond blade. It made a nice smooth cut. Hal

You could use a 2 or 3in concrete hole saw at the corners and use a concrete saw that you can rent at most rental centers. Use the hole saw for the corners and the saw for everything else. Will leave a nice smooth cut for you to frame.

Leonard

A 303 Enfield with fmj bullet can shoot through 4 inches of concrete.I wonder how he will get a lintle in place.

LOL, kinda' like Clint in "Thunderbolt and Lightfoot?"----only his was 20mm...

I also use a diamond blade in a circular saw. I only use water when cutting floors though.

Cut the top and bottom mortar joints then make your vertical cuts. If you cut in the butt joints you'll only need to cut every other brick. Then make cuts in a few horizontal mortar joints inside the area to be torn out. Use a hammer and chisel or a roto hammer to break up the first couple of bricks. Once you get a few bricks out the rest will come out easy. Do the same on the opposite side. Then make some cuts in the joints of the middle row of bricks. You won't be able to cut around the perimeter so you'll have to chisel or roto hammer the vertical cuts. Use a GOOD dust mask when cutting the bricks and mortar. It's really not a difficult project if you have the right tools.

Years ago when ever our fire dept. responded to a chimney fire the second time in a season and there was no clean-out for the chimney, the Chief would make them one. He would call for the big sledge hammer, take a big swing, and put the hammer through the outer layer. that was cleaned out a little, then he took another big swing and went through the inner layer. I know you said that you tried a sledge hammer but maybe you just need to add a little more determination. Once you get it started of course you will be able to enlarge it with hammer and chisel.

That's the idea. You can rental a concrete CHAINSAW. I've what they do and it is very impressive.
Cut a square hole or a round one.

As a plumber I've cut many an access to get under a pier and beam house. I use a 1 1/2" hammer drill and drilled a hole in the 4 corners. I then installed a chisel, after turning the drill part off, it's now a demolition hammer, and knocked the rest out. The top and bottom are always on a morter joint and then the left and right you just break every othe brick in half.
It used to take about 30 minutes back when I was young. Now I need a bigger hole and it takes a little longer. As a door I use a piece of 3/4" treated plywood and screwed it into the brick with the appropriate anchors. The hole is not a clean as saw cutting but the plywood covers all of that.

I like it.

LOL
And a 12 ga on the bunnies?

OMG LMAO, I'd forgotten about that...somehow

To be honest, the right tool for the job is going to get you the best results, chipping and hacking away at it with impact and or hammer type tools makes for a sloppy rough opening, that will require repair, surfacing etc. in most instances.

3 course thick, I agree, hire it done from a concrete cutting outfit with a concrete chainsaw, cuts wet no dust, accurate and will leave you with a smooth rough opening, without fracturing beyond the rough opening, potentially weakening the wall etc.

There are other methods, but these outfits have the right tools, are quick and there will be minimal mess, no dust. On one project I did when in high rise construction I hired out $50,000 worth of cutting, core drilling and the like, some of which was 5000 psi concrete plank with wire strand reinforcing, concrete saw went right through it on 10 floors, elevator entrance planks were slightly longer, dimension on the drawings or a mistake by the plant, can't recall, that saw made short work of it.

Typically a masonry doorbuck is mortared in as the brick or block wall is erected, no fasteners, but I believe you should be able to source a frame that can be fastened with the use of a mechanical fastener, like an expansion bolt, sleeve anchor etc., like what Hilti, Redhead, Powers, Fastenal can provide, I like Hilti the best.

Only other way is while doing the demo, "tooth out" the courses, then mortar the bricks back in, with the tiebacks/embeds for the frame but with 3 courses, that would seemingly be more trouble than its worth.

I don't know what the 120 volt version of these are like, but the 230 volt ones we can get here at the big & cheap stores works very good. Don't forget that you'll need some type of header above your opening. Best to make the hole and install the header then open up the hole underneath.

Dave

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-1-inch-sds-rotary-hammer-97743.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-sds-masonry-flat-chisel-set-42651.html